Rose diseases description with photographs and methods. Diseases of roses and their treatment. Anthracnose - a cold spring problem

In addition to insect pests, there are a large number of fungal organisms that cause and contribute to the development of various rose diseases. To successfully grow healthy and beautiful plants, you need to know rose diseases and methods of treating them and be able to recognize diseases at an early stage.
Most rose pathogens have the ability to: long time will be preserved on dead plant debris and therefore it is very important to collect absolutely all fallen leaves, cut shoots, and removed weeds and burn them.
If before winter shelter If you do not remove the leaves from the rose bushes, then the pest eggs and fungal spores remaining on them will survive the winter well, and with the onset of spring they will infect the plant.
For preventive purposes, it is recommended to treat bushes in the spring with a solution of copper chloride (0.4%) and in the fall with iron sulfate (3%). It is very important to disinfect before pruning. cutting tools, and treat the cut areas with garden pitch or clay mortar.
Rust of roses

One of the most common diseases, rose rust is a fungal disease caused by the rust fungus.​

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As a rule, it occurs in a weakened plant in cold spring after harsh winter and completely affects the plant around mid-summer. Symptoms of rose rust, which appear in early spring, are rusty spots on the upper side of the leaves and bright orange pads, which are clusters of spores, on the underside of the leaves, which turn black in the second half of summer. Infected leaves fall off, and young shoots turn red and wrinkle.
Methods to combat rose rust:

• removal and destruction of the affected parts of the plant at the initial stage of disease development;
• spraying the plant with a decoction of horsetail;
• pollinating the bush with ground sulfur, or a mixture consisting of ground sulfur with slaked lime in a ratio of 5:1;
• spraying and watering the plant with wormwood tincture consisting of 400-500 g of fresh leaves and 40-50 g of dried wormwood leaves poured into 10 liters cold water and infused for 2-2.5 weeks before fermentation begins. Before use, this infusion must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10;
• in case of severe damage, it is necessary to treat the lower part with copper-containing preparations
• leaf surfaces once every 2.5-3 weeks;
• as a last resort - spraying with a solution (1%) of Bordeaux mixture.

Rose diseases: black spot

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At the initial stage of development of the disease, the upper surface of the leaves becomes covered with very rapidly increasing dark brown spots with yellowish edges. After 1.5-2 weeks, the leaves of the plant turn yellow and fall off, then the stems become covered in spots, flowering stops, growth stops, the rose loses all its foliage and the plant dies.
Methods to combat black spotting:

1. systematic destruction of the affected parts of an individual initial stage development of the disease;
2. spraying with horsetail decoction;
3. spraying with sulfur-containing preparations once every 7-10 days for severe damage;
4. spraying with copper-containing preparations, such as copper-soap emulsion and copper sulfate (5%);
5. An extreme control measure is to water the soil around the bush with a solution (1%) of Bordeaux mixture once every 6-8 days and spray the entire plant.

Powdery mildew

The most common disease of roses, powdery mildew, got its name because powdery mildew forms on the stems, leaves and young shoots. white coating. It is very similar to flour, and after the spores ripen, a liquid resembling dew drops begins to be released.

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Most often, greenhouse and indoor varieties of roses, as well as actively growing young shoots and leaves, are susceptible to this disease. The disease is caused by a fungus and very quickly spreads throughout the plant and is transferred to neighboring bushes.
At first, powdery mildew spots are easily erased, and there is no noticeable damage to living tissue underneath, but after 1.5-2 weeks they cover the entire bush, turning into a solid white coating. This leads to curling and falling of leaves, bending of stems, deformation of flowers and the death of young shoots. As a result, the bush quickly withers and very often dies.

The infection develops very quickly under favorable conditions such as a hot, humid day and a cool, condensation-promoting night.​

This disease is much easier to prevent than to fight it. In autumn, you need to remove all affected shoots from the plant, remove all the leaves under the bush and burn it. Add ash under the bush and dig it up, with the obligatory transfer of soil - this will impede the access of oxygen to the pathogens. It is recommended for prevention in autumn and early spring to spray roses with a solution (3%) copper sulfate.
Control measures powdery mildew:

• exclude fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers that stimulate the development of fungus, giving preference to ash and potassium fertilizers;
• at the early stage of the disease, organic preparations are effective - 1 kg of manure and 200-300 g diluted in 10 liters of water wood ash, infused for 5-7 days. Then the infusion should be filtered and the bush should be sprayed at intervals of 1 time every 4-5 days until the signs of the disease completely disappear;
• with an average degree of damage, a copper-soap solution consisting of 100 g of grated laundry soap dissolved in 10 liters of water, with the addition of 30-40 g of copper sulfate, is effective. The bush should be sprayed with this solution at intervals of 1 time every 8-10 days;
• in case of severe damage they are used special means, such as topsin and benomyl. Treatment with such preparations should be carried out 3-4 times in a row at intervals of 1.5-2 weeks. In case of advanced disease, the affected plant must be removed and destroyed to avoid damage to neighboring plants.

Treatment of roses

There are a number of main reasons why roses most often get sick:

• improper pruning, after which the cut area does not overgrow for a very long time;
• evening watering of plants;
• plants growing next to roses are already infected with bacterial diseases - most likely the rose bushes will suffer the same fate;
• a cool, humid climate actively promotes the development of fungal diseases;
• waterlogging or lack of moisture;
• soil deficiency nutrients.
  The treatment method for roses depends on the disease:
• fungal diseases are treated by destroying infected leaves and pruning the plant;
• to combat mold outbreaks, use sulfur or Funginex;
• at bacterial disease it is necessary to remove and destroy the infected stem along with the ulcer;
• in case of sulfur rot on branches and buds, the affected parts must be removed;
• If a bacterial gall disease occurs, it is necessary to remove the infected plant from the garden or flower bed as quickly as possible, otherwise it will lead to the death of crops growing nearby.

The treatment of roses after wintering deserves special attention, since the plant has weakened and become very vulnerable over a long cold and damp period. Major diseases infectious burn stem rot, fusarium rot, and bacterial canker develop due to poor ventilation and excess moisture during the dormant period. In this case, roses need to be fed with mineral and complex fertilizers. Carry out the necessary course of treatment of diseases with the help of drugs. In case of severe damage, the plant or its infected parts must be removed.
Protecting roses from pests

The main pests of roses are: roses

Being capricious flower, the rose gets infected quite often various diseases. This becomes clear from her appearance: a characteristic coating appears on the leaves and buds, or spots or dryness appear. The plant begins to wither before our eyes, and it needs to be the right help. Often roses become infected from neighboring bushes or weeds, so when planting roses you should leave a distance of at least 50 centimeters from neighboring plantings.

Fungal (bacterial) diseases

The basis of a fungal infection is a fungal spore. It grows quickly and is easily transmitted from an infected plant to roses. If any sign of a fungal infection is detected, treatment is started immediately to prevent the fungus from spreading further. The most common diseases are:

• Stem cancer. The disease occurs due to damage to the flower by a fungal infection, also called Infectious burn. Infection occurs in spring or autumn. The fungus penetrates the stem through microcracks and multiplies. The growth of the fungus will be provoked by fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, as well as rainy weather and lack of wind. Signs of a stem canker infection include a grey-brown flower stem that develops cankers. Over time, black spots - pycnidia - form on the ulcers.

The most effective way to fight cancer is to remove cankers from the stem with sandpaper or a knife. The places where the ulcers are cut off are treated with potassium permanganate or garden varnish. To prevent the fungus from spreading to subsequent bushes, the affected plant is sprayed with HOM fungicide. For cancer prevention, a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture is used, which is sprayed evenly over all bushes. The liquid will prevent the spread of fungal spores and protect the roses from infection.

• Rust. The disease occurs due to the spread of the fungus Phragmidium. The defeat occurs in the spring, most often in April. Red (rusty) spots appear on infected leaves. Then the entire leaf dries out and falls off. New young shoots curl into a tube, then crack and also fall off. Treatment is carried out with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. It is sprayed over the entire height of the bush. Preparations containing zinc and copper effectively fight rust. Such substances include Topaz, Abiga-Pik, Bayleton.

• Powdery mildew. One of the most common types of the disease. The fungus primarily affects young shoots, less often buds and leaves. The disease progresses well when warm temperature and high humidity. Signs of the disease are manifested by the presence of dark red spots and drying of the leaf blade. Pustules form on the shoot - white pads, which contain fungal spores. To treat powdery mildew, fungicides Fundazol, Topsin-M, Bayleton help. It is prohibited to feed the rose with nitrogen supplements during treatment. All infected shoots and bushes are pruned and burned, the cut areas are treated with hydrogen peroxide or garden varnish.

• Gray rot. Infection of a rose occurs through infection from neighboring plants. The spread of the fungus Botrytis cinerea is expressed by dark spots that form on the sprout. The leaves and petals of the flower may have a yellowish tint and then quickly fade. Over time it appears on them gray plaque with a fluffy layer. The growth of the fungus is provoked by high humidity and excessive watering of the soil. The use of fungicides such as Euparen or Fundazol helps against gray rot. Infected shoots are immediately removed from the bush and burned. Dry leaves and branches are also trimmed.

Viral diseases

The virus infects the rose instantly and is quickly transmitted to neighboring shoots. The bush becomes infected with viral infections from neighboring plants. With timely and rapid treatment, the infection can be defeated without sad consequences, but in advanced stages the rose dies.

• Streak virus. Any plant can become an infecting object. The infection manifests itself by the formation of a burgundy-brown edging around the perimeter of the leaf. Then the leaf begins to turn black and dies. The main measure to combat striping is trimming the affected leaves. The cut areas are treated with potassium permanganate or peroxide.

• Viral wilting. The disease manifests itself in a special way: fox roses become elongated and narrow, and then acquire a brown color and fall off. Bud formation occurs sparingly, and soon stops altogether. Gradually all the shoots become thinner and dry out. First of all, after detecting wilting, the bad infected shoots are cut off and the cut is treated with garden varnish. The disease is difficult to treat, effective solution The only problem is pruning the bush. If an entire rose bush is infected, it is dug up and burned so that the disease does not spread to healthy flowers.

• Tobacco necrosis virus. The disease is transmitted through the juice contained in the shoots and zoospores. In the initial stage, spotting occurs on the leaves of the rose, and then intense darkening of the leaf occurs and it falls off. Necrosis is combated by drugs from the group of insecticides that are aimed at killing insects.

• Mosaic virus. Mosaic is considered one of the most common diseases. If round necrotic spots appear on the leaves of the plant, this is the first sign of infection with the mosaic virus. The disease is transmitted through plant sap; the carrier may be a nematode. Mosaic is difficult to treat, so infected shoots are pruned and then burned.

Non-communicable diseases

Most often, roses begin to “fail” due to a lack of nutrients in the soil or due to an unfavorable climate. This has nothing to do with the bush being damaged by fungal or viral diseases. A lack of nutrients in the soil manifests itself in different ways. It could be:

• rapid withering of buds. May be caused by a lack of potassium, magnesium or manganese in the soil;
• poor bud formation. Most often it occurs when there is a lack of potassium and phosphorus in the soil;
• yellowing of leaves. The cause may be an excess of nitrogen in the soil or a lack of iron;
• leaf falling. A lack of magnesium makes the leaves less durable and they quickly fall off.

To establish specific reason, you need to watch the rose for several days. Then you need to enter the necessary fertilizing. Sometimes using organic fertilizers based on mullein, chicken manure or peat. The addition of complex liquid additives with a rich elemental composition has a good effect on roses.

Important! All additives are diluted with water in advance in accordance with the instructions for use of the drug.

Folk remedies for treatment

Old and time-tested methods are still popular because they work effectively and do not harm the rose. A mixture of ash and rotted mullein is very successful in combating powdery mildew. For a bucket of water take 1 kilogram of manure and a glass of ash. Infuse the mixture for a week, and then pollinate the entire plant with the solution. Pollination is carried out in the morning 1-2 times a week.

The usual routine may help get rid of fungal spores. laundry soap. The infected areas are washed with soap foamed with a sponge and left to soak for 2-3 hours. Then clean water wash off the soap from the surface of the leaves and trunk. Soap is not applied to the buds. The procedure can be repeated after a couple of days.

Against insects and bacterial infections Onions and garlic will help. 3 heads of onion or 2-3 heads of garlic are crushed in a blender, and then transferred to a saucepan and filled with 3-4 liters of water. Keep the infusion at room temperature for 5-7 days, filter. Spray the solution on the leaves and stem 2 times a week for a month.

Disease Prevention

In order not to have to deal with diseases, and even more so with their treatment, roses must be treated for preventive purposes. Disease prevention is carried out in the spring - this is the most vulnerable time for infection. Copper sulfate is an excellent medicine for this purpose. Its 3% diluted solution is sprayed over the bush when the rose buds are still closed. Bordeaux mixture has a similar effect.

Mullein and ash have a preventive effect. Their liquid mixture is applied to the leaves and stem of the rose in the first half of summer. The preparations Zircon, Euparen, Tilt, Bayleton can also be used to prevent the formation of fungal and viral infections; they do not harm the flower and are well tolerated.

Attention! Optimal time The processing time for roses is considered to be mid-April - late May. When treating with preparations, it is better to avoid fertilizers.

With timely prevention, roses will never have to be treated. Of course, there are times when a flower withers and sheds its leaves, but in most cases this is caused by a lack of vitamins. To eliminate the problem, it is enough to choose the right additive, and the rose will continue to grow actively and delight with its attractive appearance.

All diseases and pests of roses are well known to avid gardeners. And for a novice summer resident, the information provided on this page will be of enormous value. After all, rose diseases and the fight against them affect everyone without exception, since the culture is very susceptible to them. The most common diseases of roses are infectious burn, spotting, gray rot and powdery mildew. And the most important pests of roses are aphids, leaf rollers, and caterpillars. You can find out everything you need to know about fighting roses on this page. Here it is suggested to start by looking at the main diseases and pests of roses in the photo, from which you can easily recognize the problem. The accuracy of the symptom mapping can then be identified using the rose disease description. Well, after all this, all that remains is to choose suitable means fights that can be used to treat plants.

Diseases of garden roses and the fight against them (with video)

The causative agents of infectious diseases of garden roses are pathogenic fungi, bacteria, viruses and other microorganisms.

Infectious burn- a disease that affects roses after removing the cover. A bright red ring appears on the shoots, which then turns black, and the shoot itself gradually dies. The disease is promoted by frost damage to the bark due to untimely covering of roses for the winter. Control measures. Diseased shoots need to be cut below the ring, to healthy wood. If the ring is not closed, then scrape the damaged bark down to healthy wood and cover it with the “RanNet” preparation. Look at these rose diseases in the photo, which shows the main symptoms.

Various spots(black, phyllostictous, septoria spots) appear, as a rule, in mid-summer. The spots come in different colors and shapes, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. Spots develop with increased soil and air humidity, lack of potassium, and excess nitrogen. Control measures. In the spring, when the roses open, you need to spray all the roses with phytosporin in a medicinal dose (7 ml/l of water). In May, repeat treatment with phytosporin solution, but in a lower concentration (3.5 ml/l), then after a week, if the temperature is above 12 ° C, spray with gamair (1 tablet/10 l), after another week - with alirin (1 table/10 l). Do the same in June and July. If infection does occur, collect and burn all affected leaves. Continue treatment with phytosporin, but with a therapeutic dose, alternating with treatment with a combined solution of alirin and gamaira (one tablet of each drug per 1.5 liters of water). It is recommended to treat the plant itself and the soil around it with copper-containing preparations, preferably phytosporin.

Powdery mildew appears more often with high air humidity, with sharp fluctuations in day and night temperatures, with excessive fertilizing with nitrogen, and with a deficiency of potassium in the soil. Leaves and young shoots are affected. First, a white coating appears, and then gray spots. The leaves curl, the buds do not open. Control measures. Cut out the affected shoots, collect the leaves and burn everything. You can use a copper-soap solution. But it is better to treat with mullein infusion (1:10), or a five-day infusion of ash (1 glass/10 liters of water) or nettle infusion.

Gray mold, or botrytis. The causative agent of gray mold is the fungus Botrytis cinerea, which affects about 200 various types plants. In roses, gray rot mainly affects buds with pedicels, the ends of young stems and leaves; in wet weather they become covered with a gray fluffy coating. Weakened roses and most often varieties with light flowers. The buds on roses affected by botrytis do not open, rot and fall off. Small brown spots appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off. Gray rot also affects young roots of cuttings. Foci of infection remain in plant debris. The fungal spores are then carried by insects and wind. That's why unwanted neighbor for roses is, for example, garden strawberries, often suffering from gray mold. The disease appears on roses when plantings are dense or if the rose garden is watered late in the evening and at high air humidity.

To prevent root rot and improve soil health, place a gliocladin tablet under each plant in May; try to repeat this procedure in August. Use chemicals as a method of pest control only when absolutely necessary.

Watch all these rose diseases in the video, which shows the algorithm for combating them.

Pests of garden rose leaves and protection against them

Most frequent pests garden roses are:

Shchitovka

leaf roller

Pennitsa

rose sawfly

Caterpillars

Chafer

Thrips

Rose leafhoppers

You need to carefully monitor your roses and prevent the spread of rose leaf pests, since it is not difficult to collect the emerging caterpillars or beetles while they are in single copies. Noticing in the garden ladybug, transfer it to roses, let it fight aphids. Roses can be protected from pests using biological techniques. Also use protective plants. So, the rose garden can be lined with, for example, marigolds or nasturtium - they repel nematodes and are effective against thrips. You can add decorative onions to your rose plantings, which will scare away harmful insects and help cope with illnesses. Officinalis marigolds are grown among vegetables and flower crops to combat nematodes, mites, fusarium, butterflies, thrips. Parsley borders are used as a snail repellent.

Look at the rose pests in the photo, where they are shown from different angles.

Modern remedies for diseases and pests of roses

Fitosporin is a modern bacterial antifungal, antiputrefactive drug. An effective remedy for rose diseases such as late blight, fusarium, root rot, black leg, powdery mildew. It also helps against scab, rust, rhizoctonia, bacterial cancer, brown spot, Alternaria, downy mildew. The drug phytosporin is an isolated and multiplied mass of beneficial microorganisms that, when released into the soil, destroy harmful bacteria. Available in briquettes, in bulk and liquid form. It is better to use the drug in liquid form. Therapeutic dose is 7 ml per 1 liter of water, prophylactic dose is 3.5 ml per 1 liter of water. Fitosporin has an alkaline environment, so it should not be mixed with anything. Starting in May, plants are sprayed with it regularly once every two weeks.

Alirin, gamair, gliocladin- a series of drugs to suppress pathogens of fungal diseases on all types garden crops, indoor plants and in the soil. Used as medicinal and prophylactic agents. The preparations help restore beneficial microflora in the soil and on plants, are non-phytotoxic, safe for humans, and relieve soil toxicity after the use of agrochemicals. Apply by spraying plants or watering into holes and under the roots. When spraying, it is necessary to add to the solution liquid soap in an amount of 1 ml/10 l. In case of severe damage to plants during the growing season, alternation with chemical fungicides is recommended.

It is dangerous to use chemicals against rose pests because they persist in the soil of the area. But in some cases it is simply necessary.

We can recommend Inta-Vir and Iskra - they have wide range actions against insects such as May beetles, aphids, pennies, scale insects, leaf rollers, roseate sawfly, caterpillars, thrips. HB-101 is a growth stimulator and activator of the plant immune system. An organic product, in some way homeopathy for plants, safe for people and animals. Tilling the soil, spraying plants. The greatest effect is achieved when using a simple aqueous solution. Dosage 1-2 drops per 1 liter of water. It is important to observe regular feeding and dosage accuracy. HB-101 has no shelf life and does not require special storage conditions; the diluted drug is used immediately.

Roses are whimsical, require careful care and often get sick. Flowers affected by fungal and viral diseases lose their decorative properties and become a threat to other plantings.

To prevent diseases of garden roses and domestic species of this flower, it is enough to systematically carry out preventive actions. In case of damage by pathogenic flora, roses can be treated; the main thing is to correctly determine what the flower is sick with and choose an effective remedy to save the rose.

Article outline

What are the diseases of garden and indoor roses?

Viral diseases are becoming the most dangerous for roses. They affect the entire plant, unlike fungal diseases, when only the stem or leaves are infected.

In the case of a viral infection, it is extremely difficult to cure a plant, and it is easier to prevent the disease than to resist it.

When fungal infection saving the plant is easier. The spores rarely affect the bud, and this can become hallmark when determining the type of disease.

Common diseases of garden roses are:

1. Powdery mildew (Conidiosis).
2. Downy mildew (Peronosporosis).
3. Black spot.
4. Gray rot (Moniliosis).
5. Rust.
6. Mosaic.
7. Brown spot (Phyllosticosis).
8. Rose stem cancer (Infectious burn).

The list of diseases of indoor roses is much shorter. At proper care home crops get sick less often.

The most common diseases of domestic roses:

• Rust;
• Powdery and pseudo-powdery mildew;
• Leaf spotting.

Treatment methods indoor pets are no different from treating garden crops. Domestic species are treated with similar agents in dosages for indoor plants according to the manufacturer's instructions.

It's time to find out how to treat roses against fungal infections and viral infections.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a common lesion that can cause loss of decorative qualities. The causative agent is the fungus Erysiphales, the mycelium of which appears on the leaves as a white coating. Ripe spores resemble white dew droplets, which is where the disease gets its name.

The affected parts of the plant stop developing, the leaves darken and fall off. The rose's immunity decreases, which in winter can lead to partial or complete freezing.

Favorable conditions for the development of fungus are temperatures above +20°C, dry summer with changes in humidity. Erysiphales loves “overfed” plants and excessive amounts of nitrogen fertilizers. The fungus spreads through watering, wind, rain, insects or contact with other infected plants.

To prevent powdery mildew you need to:

The fight against powdery mildew consists of treating with colloidal sulfur and fungicides:

• "Vectra";
• “Fundazol”;

Pseudo-powdery mildew is caused by the fungus Peronospora, and the disease itself is called Pseudoperonospora in Latin. The intensive development of peronospora is facilitated by temperature changes combined with increased humidity, waterlogged soils, waterlogging during irrigation, lack of sunlight and ventilation, and mechanical damage to plants in the presence of a pathogen.

Affects decorative, vegetable and berry crops. Signs of downy mildew are spots of burgundy, deep red or purple. There is a thin coating on the underside of the leaf blade, the stems crack, the buds darken and then die completely.

Prevention involves the use of drugs containing copper. Three (50 g/10 l) are carried out per calendar year:

In case of treatment, the dosage of copper sulfate is increased to 100 g/10 l. Instead of copper sulfate, the preparations Kuprozan and Ditanom - M 45 are used for preventive purposes.

If peronospora has completely infected the rose, the bush is removed and burned to prevent infection of neighboring plantings. In case of partial damage, diseased shoots are removed mechanically. Pruning is done by capturing 3 cm of a healthy stem. Sections and instruments used are disinfected with a 1% formaldehyde solution.

The fungicide ““ will cope with minor lesions. Timely application of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers will prevent the occurrence of the disease.

Black spot

The causative agent of black spot is the fungus Marssonina rosae, which reproduces on the leaves and buds of roses. At first, characteristic black dots appear, which then turn into brown or black spots with a light central part. Affected leaves curl and dry out. The rose loses its decorative effect, weakens, and grows slowly.

Black spotting appears during the period of prolonged rains in May or June. Contributes to disease high humidity, decreased temperature, high nitrogen content in the air during precipitation. The fungus is spread by watering, wind, animals and insects, and by contact with infected crops.

Early treatment of rose bushes with copper sulfate (10 g - 15 g/10 l) will help destroy spores. In the fall, for the purpose of prevention, the bushes are treated with 3% iron or copper sulfate.

1. Treatment begins with mechanical pruning of the infected parts;
2. Removed shoots are not put into compost, but burned outside garden plot for complete destruction of pathogenic flora.

When choosing fungicides for treatment, pay attention to preparations containing trace elements of copper and zinc. Good results against spotting ornamental crops show the drugs “Kaptan” and “Fundazol”. These fungicides are convenient to use in open ground, for indoor and greenhouse varieties.

Gray rot

The causative agent of gray rot (moniliosis), the fungus Botrytis cinerea, first infects the stem at the base, gradually moves upward and ultimately infects the entire plant. Formed on the stems dark spots, the inclusions on the buds and leaves are yellowish in color. Botrytis cinerea develops intensively during periods of prolonged rainfall, with temperature changes, insufficient ventilation and lack of sunlight.

For gray rot to appear, there must be dead cells in which the pathogenic fungus begins its active development. Botrytis cinerea is omnivorous and attacks any plant species, so prevention of moniliosis is important. Pathogenic flora can be stored in the soil for a long time until favorable conditions for development appear, and gray rot on rose bushes can appear at any time during the growing season.

Prevention of moniliosis will be loosening the soil and laying mulch. Removing weak and infected shoots is also essential to maintaining healthy roses.

1. For the prevention of bushes and trunk circle sprayed with copper sulfate;
2. For treatment, apply “” twice a month until the signs of the disease completely disappear.

Rust

The causative agent is the rust fungus Uredinalis, which becomes more active with increasing humidity during the period of prolonged rainfall in May–June. The pathogenic fungus forms pustules - convex formations of bright orange color. The formations contain spores of the pathogen, which, when cracked, are naturally dispersed and infect neighboring crops.

Leaves affected by rust take on a dark hue and fall off prematurely. The first symptom of the disease is orange-brown spots on leaf plate. The shoots become deformed, twist into loops, crack and become carriers of pathogenic flora.

Used to prevent rust infection mechanical method– thinning bushes, pruning weak and deformed shoots. Before covering the rose for the winter, treatment is carried out Bordeaux mixture. Immunomodulators are also used:

Treatment is carried out with fungicides “” or “Bayleton”, as well as a solution of copper sulfate.

Mosaic

A viral disease associated with damage to plant chloroplasts. Signs are manifested by changes in the color of the leaf blade, peduncles, and stems. On a rose, necrotic spots have a greenish, yellow or brown tint. The arrangement of inclusions resembles an intricate mosaic. The change in color is accompanied by deformation of the leaves and shredding of the buds.

The virus is transmitted by mechanical pruning tools. Favorable condition for the life of a microorganism the temperature becomes +20°C – +25°C with an increase in atmospheric humidity.

To prevent infection with a mosaic virus:

1. Disinfection garden tools 1% iodine solution;
2. Timely loosening of the soil;
3. Weed removal;
4. Destruction of diseased plants.

Treatment of mosaic in garden roses is carried out with karbofos. The fight against the virus must be carried out immediately; the infection spreads quickly and successfully develops on lilacs, currants, cucumbers, gooseberries, and raspberry shoots.

Brown spot

Phyllosticosis (brown spot) is a disease of rose leaves, manifested by brown, sometimes purple, spots various shapes throughout the entire leaf blade. Over time, the brown tint changes to gray, the stain dries out, and holes appear. The causative agent of phyllostictasis is the fungus Phyllosticta rosae desm. The affected vegetative mass turns yellow prematurely, the foliage falls off, but the fungal spores persist and overwinter in the fallen leaves.”;

“Profit”;

Treatment is carried out three times with an interval of 10 days. A solution of copper sulfate and soap is also used against brown spot: 30 g of sulfate/200 ml of soap/5 g of soda.

Stem canker is a disease caused by the fungus Coniothyrium wernsdorffiae. Activated in spring and autumn time, penetrating into the stems of the plant through cracks formed by low temperatures. Pathogenic flora spreads through pruning tools and through untreated wounds on rose stems. Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers, wet and windless weather contributes to the spread of spores.

Stem canker appears as brown cankers on the shoots. Black spots subsequently appear on the ulcers - the site of maturation of spores, which will then become a source of infection of neighboring plants.

Diseased plants are pruned, and the cut areas are treated with garden varnish. If stem cancer appears before the buds open, spraying with Bordeaux mixture will help. The rest of the time, the fungicide ““ is used, which is treated weekly until the rose is completely cured.

conclusions

Diseases of garden and house roses are easier to prevent than to treat large affected areas of plants.

To do this, do not over-moisten the soil, use preparations containing copper for roses, thin out the bushes in the garden and replant home varieties in a timely manner.

For prevention, you can use the drug ““, which destroys most fungi and harmful bacteria.

Simple rules of agricultural technology - pruning weakened shoots, burning leaves, loosening the soil and strict rationing of fertilizing will help maintain the health of the queen of flowers.

If you have an apple tree growing in your garden, naturally you want to get as many tasty fruits as possible from it. Often, beginning gardeners believe that the more magnificent the tree, the greater the harvest. But that's not true. In order for an apple tree to produce a rich, high-quality harvest, so that the fruits are large and juicy, each of its branches must receive enough light and air. Reducing light exposure to branches by up to 30 percent fruit buds do not form on trees.

Ferns are one of the categories of indoor plants that are actively gaining popularity. Their luxurious leaves with unique patterns and soothing, mysterious shades of green look so elegant that it is difficult to resist the beauty of ferns, even if they are not suitable place. Along with unpretentious ferns are becoming more common and rare, original views. And among them is a bizarre epiphyte polypodium with unusual leaves and colors.

Bigos in Belarusian - a hot dish from sauerkraut and meat, which is prepared in many countries: Germany, Poland, Lithuania, Ukraine and Belarus. Each country has its own cooking characteristics, but the base is approximately the same everywhere - a mixture of pickled and fresh white cabbage, pork belly and smoked meats. Bigos takes quite a long time to prepare, but the result is worth it. From not himself pleasant aroma You can easily get rid of stewed sauerkraut by following my recommendations.

Gardeners waking up from " hibernation", missed you gardening work, and hands reach out to the tools. But it is important to approach the issue of pruning ornamental plants competently. It’s not for nothing that they say “measure seven times and cut once.” Our article will help you figure out how to give your plants the right spring “hairstyles,” which of your green pets will respond with pleasure to a new haircut, and for which garden residents it is better to wait a while with pruning.

Cucumbers are the favorite crop of most gardeners, so they grow in our vegetable beds everywhere. But quite often, inexperienced summer residents have many questions about growing them, and, first of all, in open ground. The fact is that cucumbers are very heat-loving plants, and the agricultural technology of this crop in zones temperate climate has its own characteristics. We will tell you everything you need to know about growing cucumbers in open ground in this article.

May days delight with warmth and the opportunity to spend more time on the plots. But the long-awaited month of the arrival of stable warmth cannot boast of a balanced lunar calendar. In May there are periods favorable for work only in ornamental garden or only in the garden, are quite long, and there are quite a few days suitable for any plants. The lunar calendar for May 2019 requires planning and skillful distribution of planting and sowing times.

Snack cake - simple and delicious! This cake is from chicken liver with vegetables and delicious sauce will decorate a modest family holiday or Sunday lunch. Liver pancakes, also known as the layers of our cake, are very easy to prepare; liver dough is easiest to make in a blender. Pancakes are fried for several minutes on each side. The cream (sauce) for the snack cake is made from sour cream, mayonnaise and herbs. If you grind dill with salt, the cream will turn a light green color.

Despite the popularity of the popular nickname “bottle palm,” it is very difficult to confuse the genuine hiophorba bottle palm with its relatives. A real indoor giant and quite rare plant, Giophorba is one of the most elite palm trees. She became famous not only for her special bottle-shaped trunk, but also for her very difficult character. Caring for hyophorba is no more difficult than ordinary indoor palm trees. But the conditions will have to be selected.

Warm salad with funchose, beef and mushrooms - delicious dish for the lazy. Funchoza - rice or glass noodles - is one of the easiest to prepare among its pasta relatives. Just pour boiling water over the glass noodles and leave for a few minutes, then drain the water. Funchoza does not stick together and does not need to be watered with oil. I recommend cutting long noodles into smaller pieces with scissors so as not to inadvertently snag the entire portion of noodles in one sitting.

Surely, many of you have come across this plant, at least as a component of some cosmetic or food products. It is “masked” under different names: “jujube”, “unabi”, “jujube”, “Chinese date”, but these are all the same plant. This is the name of a crop that has long been grown in China, and was grown as a medicinal plant. From China it was brought to the Mediterranean countries, and from there jujube began to slowly spread throughout the world.

May chores in the decorative garden are always associated with the need to use every free minute as productively as possible. This month, flower seedlings are planted and seasonal decoration begins. But you shouldn’t forget about shrubs, vines, or trees. Due to the imbalance of the lunar calendar this month with ornamental plants It works best in early and mid-May. But the weather does not always allow you to follow the recommendations.

Why do people move to the countryside and buy dachas? For a variety of reasons, of course, including practical and material ones. But the main idea is still to be closer to nature. The long-awaited summer season has already begun; a lot of work awaits us in the garden. With this material we want to remind you and ourselves that in order for work to be a joy, you must remember to rest. What could it be better than rest on fresh air? Just relax in a furnished corner of your own garden.

May brings not only long-awaited warmth, but also no less long-awaited opportunities to plant even heat-loving plants to the beds. This month, seedlings begin to be transferred into the soil, and crops reach their peak. While planting and new crops are being planted, it is important not to forget about other important chores. After all, not only the beds need enhanced care, but also the plants in greenhouses and seedlings, which are beginning to be actively hardened off this month. It is important to form plants in time.

Pie for Easter - homemade recipe a simple sponge cake filled with nuts, candied fruits, figs, raisins and other goodies. The white icing that decorates the cake is made from white chocolate and butter, it will not crack, and it tastes like chocolate cream! If you don’t have the time or skills to tinker with yeast dough, then you can prepare this simple holiday baking for the Easter table. Such simple recipe I think any novice home pastry chef can master it.