Biological characteristics of cucumbers. Planting seeds in open ground. How to grow early cucumbers

Proper care picking cucumbers is actually easier than it seems at first glance, and does not take much time. The main points include watering, weeding, tying, pinching and fertilizing.

Planting and caring for cucumbers require certain skills, knowledge and skills. The basics of how to properly care for cucumbers will be discussed below.

How to prepare seeds for planting

You can plant cucumbers directly in open ground or in a container for pre-growing seedlings. Growing seedlings from seeds is painstaking work. To ensure that the seeds are viable and complete, they must be large in size and good weight, they should also be cared for correctly.

The seeds are first treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, after which they are placed in a warm clean water for 20 minutes. Poor quality seeds usually float to the surface and can be removed very easily. This can be done 12 hours before planting the seeds in the ground. An important measure for preparing seeds is warming them up. To do this, the bag of seeds is suspended from a radiator or placed in a room where the temperature does not drop below 20 °C. Such heating will increase the resistance of plants to various diseases and pests.

Remaining seeds can be sown in the ground immediately or germinated for 2 days in peat or wet sawdust. Such germination is an additional selection of low-quality seed material. Seeds can be germinated at a temperature of 12–13 °C.

Planting seeds in the ground is carried out to a depth of 2 cm. If you decide to sow the seeds directly into the ground, you should keep in mind that cucumbers can grow greatly, so it is not recommended to sow them too often. You can sow 1–2 seeds in each hole, the distance between the holes is 8–10 cm. It is recommended to make the distance between the rows at least 60 cm, this will make them easier to care for and harvest.

Growing seedlings

You can grow cucumbers from seedlings. As the seedlings begin grow in advance at home, you can get the harvest much earlier.

This growing method can create some difficulties: the roots of cucumber seedlings are very thin and fragile, so young plant has taken root, it is necessary to replant with a large earthen lump.

If you decide to resort to growing cucumber seedlings, it is best to resort to using peat humus pots. They have a specially porous wall, which provides good access of oxygen and liquid to the soil layers in which the roots of the seedlings are located. The advantage of such a pot The advantage is that the seedlings can be transferred into the soil directly with it, without removing the roots and without the risk of damaging them. Once in the soil, the root system will freely grow through the walls. Such pots do not contain toxic substances or pathogens and are characterized by sufficient mechanical strength.

You can also use boxes, juice or milk cartons, plastic or paper cups as containers. Not recommended for this purpose use plastic containers from fermented milk products. They may contain lactic acid bacteria, which are pests of the root system of cucumbers and lead to the development of serious diseases and plant death.

Features of caring for cucumbers in a greenhouse

Proper care of cucumbers in a greenhouse and in the open air has some differences:

Use greenhouses possible in areas where the climate is cool enough to grow cucumbers. In addition, you can use greenhouses for growing cucumbers in the cold season - in winter and in early spring. In warm regions, cucumbers can be planted in open ground in May - June.

Soil preparation

Cucumbers can be grown in almost any soil where there is sufficient drainage and aeration. However, with proper care, the richest harvests can be harvested on soils rich in humus.

In the spring, before sowing cucumbers, for each square meter plot, 1 bucket of manure humus, peat, sawdust, a glass of ash. After this, the area is dug up to the depth of a bayonet shovel.

Before planting, the soil must be insulated. To do this, the soil is leveled and watered. hot water at the rate of 5–6 liters per 1 sq. meter. You can water the bed with a weak solution of manganese or sodium humate. The bed is covered with film before sowing.

Watering and fertilizing

To get sweet and tasty fruits, cucumbers must be watered regularly and thoroughly. If there is a lack of moisture, they will become bitter.

It is necessary to water cucumbers not on the roots, but by moistening the soil around the stem. It is not recommended to pour with a strong stream from a hose; it is better to use a watering can for this purpose. It is better to take water for irrigation heated to 20–23 °C, since colder water contributes to hypothermia and rotting of plants. Ideal for watering cucumbers barrels and other containers with water are placed in the sun so that it has time to warm up. With a lack of soil moisture, cucumber leaves begin to wither.

If water does not seep into the soil well during watering, you can make several punctures in the soil using a fork. If there is significant drying out, it is necessary to water the soil in several stages.

During the mass ripening of pilaf, it is necessary to water the plant especially carefully; you can do this every other day.

At the end of summer, watering should be reduced slightly, because overly moist cold soil leads to rot in the root system.

During watering, you can simultaneously fertilize the vegetable crop. It's best to do this in evening time when the sun is not so hot. It is not recommended to allow wild drops to come into contact with the leaves to avoid causing burns.

After fertilizing is completed, the soil around the bush is watered, so that the fertilizer is well absorbed and the plant did not receive chemical burns.

Gartering cucumbers and forming lashes

Caring for cucumbers and forming a cucumber vine often raises a lot of questions among novice gardeners. However, if this issue is not given due attention, impenetrable thickets may develop in the greenhouse or garden bed, and the yield may be significantly reduced. In addition, such growth is fraught with the development of diseases or pest infestation.

Forming a cucumber lash consists of three successive stages:

The higher the plant, the more fruits are left on it. When the height of the main stem reaches the height of the trellis and exceeds it, the top is pinched and thrown onto the trellis. . This stage is the final stage in the formation of the lash.

In addition to the basic formation procedure, it is necessary to inspect the plants weekly and remove all yellowed or diseased leaves and shoots. It is best to do this in the first half of the day, then by the evening the wounds on the shoots will have time to dry out.

For garter ground cucumbers you can use the following methods:

1. Along the edges of each row of cucumbers, a wooden or metal peg about 1.5 meters high is secured. A wire, cord or twine is stretched between them.
2. You can purchase ready-made trellises in specialized stores.
3. After the cucumber lash reaches the desired length, it is carefully lifted and tied to a cord or wire.
4. It is very important to ensure that your cucumber beds are not exposed to cold winds or drafts and are located in a sunny, warm area for the maximum amount of time.
5. Along the perimeter of the cucumber bed you can plant tall plants(for example, corn). These plants will serve as good protection from cold and wind. You can plant corn in several rows.

If cucumbers on trellises grow in the sun and are not shaded, they begin to ripen much faster. Besides, harvest with tied lashes it is much easier and more convenient.

Cucumbers are a popular vegetable in our country, so every gardener, regardless of the size of the plot, loves to grow cucumbers in his garden. But even with the same climatic conditions, everyone’s yield is different. The whole secret lies in the care when growing cucumbers; you must plant them following the rules.

If you comply correct agricultural technology, plant according to advice regarding predecessor crops and care properly, then getting a good harvest even from seeds will not be difficult for a beginner.

Basic requirements for growing cucumbers in open ground

In general, caring for crops cannot be called difficult, but taking into account the regional climate, there are many nuances that you need to know.

Basic requirements for growing cucumbers include:

• to plant are selected only healthy seeds that have been prepared;
• the soil for sowing must be loose and slightly acidic;
• planting of seeds and seedlings is carried out at a strictly allotted time in compliance with the temperature regime;
• during the growing season is carried out 3-4 weeding and loosening soil;
• The beds are regularly watered with warm water (10-14 liters per 1 m2);
• fertilizers and fertilizing are introduced according to the schedule, consumption rates nutrients cannot be changed;
• beds should be located on the sunny side, but not in a draft;
• When planting seedlings, avoid crowding;
• promptly monitor the condition of plants and the degree of soil moisture;
• If problems are identified, immediately treat the crop.

Cucumber beds should be located on the north side

Growing methods

There are quite a few options for growing greens. Among the most known methods: V open ground, greenhouse, on the balcony, in a barrel, etc.

When cultivating vegetables in open beds, the method of sowing and planting seedlings is used.

How to plant seeds in the garden

Seeds must be sown at certain temperatures, otherwise seedlings may not appear. An important point is soil and seed preparation. The quality of the work performed determines not only how they will be able to germinate, but also the intensity of development of the seedlings.

After the formation of 3-4 leaves, the bed is thinned out, leaving the strongest seedlings. At the stage of germination and shoot growth, it is important to ensure sufficient moisture, good lighting and fertilization with any nutrients that help the plant grow.

Seedlings

The seedling method is used to obtain early harvest and in order to protect young shoots from spring frosts. Seedlings grown in greenhouses or at home are transferred to the garden bed when they are already strong. Although their root system is weak, it quickly takes root in a new environment.

When transferring seedlings into a hole, it is important not to damage the sensitive root.

Before planting sprouts in open ground must undergo adaptation to the street, a sharp change in habitat and temperature can destroy them.

The lashes can be placed spread out or on a trellis. Depending on the chosen method, you need to maintain the interval between bushes and rows. In the absence of a garter, the stems should have enough space to spread across the bed.

Garter of cucumbers on a trellis net

Where is the best place to plant cucumbers to get a good harvest?

The culture comes from India, so the hot, humid climate is suitable for it. ideal option. The very structure of the lash indicates need for garter on trellises.

A garden bed arranged in this way is protected from fungal infections when there is plenty of rain and from the scorching rays of the sun. The fruits find shade under the massive leaves of the plant. However, it is worth remembering that the scorching sun is also dangerous for cucumbers; burns may appear on the greens.

Considering climatic features, it is necessary to provide partial shading of bushes or partial shade. This is easy to do by planting corn, sunflowers or low-growing grapes in the inter-row area. Diffused light will be more beneficial to the plant.

As much as you love moisture, you should not choose a low-lying area for sowing cucumbers. During heavy rainfall and high level groundwater plants are threatened fungal diseases due to waterlogging. Where better place at higher elevations, where it is much easier to control the degree of soil moisture.

Preparing the land for planting

Place under cucumber bed It's better to prepare ahead of time to avoid any unpleasant surprises.

Digging up the beds in the fall is a mandatory procedure

In spring the area dug up again and be sure to disinfect. To do this, use a weak solution of potassium permanganate or boiling water.

Cucumbers respond very well to this type of fertilizer, such as manure. It can be introduced both in autumn and spring 2-3 weeks before planting (8-10 kg per 1 m2). To stimulate the growth of young shoots, nitrogen and potassium-phosphorus substances (25 g of potassium salt, 40 g of superphosphate) are added to the soil.

To protect cucumbers from pests, the soil is treated with Actellik before planting.

In the process of preparing the soil for the new season, it is necessary, for preventive purposes, to treat the future bed with wood ash or special preparations that protect the bushes from pests (Fitoverm, Aktellik).

How to plant in soil

Growing greens using seeds requires compliance with the following rules:

• sowing time is selected taking into account favorable temperature conditions (late May - early June);
• seeds must be treated before planting;
• the soil should be disinfected and fertilized;
• It is better to place the beds from east to west;
• landing scheme – 20x100 or 60x80(depending on the growing method);
• seed immersion depth is 2-3 cm.

Rules for growing seedlings:

• the seed must undergo preparation (sorting, soaking, disinfection);
• soil is also necessary disinfect and enrich with nutrients;
• It is ideal to use a substrate of turf soil, mullein and humus (2:1:7) for cultivating seedlings;
• substances are added to fertilize the soil (30 g of ammonium nitrate or urea, 20 g of superphosphate, 6 g of potassium salt, 30 g of lime per bucket of soil);
• temperature after sowing – 12-15 degrees; after the seedlings have managed to sprout, at first 20-25 degrees are maintained for several days, then the temperature is reduced - during the day to 20-22 degrees, at night to 15 degrees;
• 10 days after emergence, the seedlings are fed with slurry (1:1) with the addition of 20 g of superphosphate per bucket of the mixture;
• a week before transferring the shoots to open ground, carry out daily outdoor hardening;
• for the purpose of prevention, seedlings are treated with epin or immunocytophyte.

Proper care of seedlings

The rules for caring for a cucumber bed are very clear. Among the main conditions are creating a humid environment. This is regulated by watering.

Ideal for use when caring for seedlings sprinkling or drip irrigation . Using a hose can damage fragile roots with a strong jet. Small area can be sprayed with a spray bottle. The water requirement per 1 m2 is 10-14 liters.

Regularity of procedures – Once every 7 days at average air humidity, 1 time every 5 days at temperatures above 28 degrees.

To water the beds, only warm, settled water is used. Using cold liquid negatively affects the development of the plant.

When caring for cucumber seedlings, it is ideal to use drip irrigation.

The intensity of development and the formation of a large lash requires a lot of nutrition, so the feeding regime cannot be ignored. After the first shoots appear on the soil surface, apply first feeding: for 10 liters of water take 10 g of potassium salt, 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 30 g of superphosphate.

Second feeding the bed is enriched after 2 weeks, doubling the amount of dissolved fertilizers. When applying fertilizers, contact of the working solution and the green part of the crop should be avoided.

To protect cucumbers from rotting and pests, it is recommended to periodically weeding. This procedure is usually combined with loosening, which ensures free access of oxygen to the soil and prevents the formation of stagnant moisture in the soil. The first weeding is done after the formation of 4-5 leaves on the shoots.

Spring weather is often unpredictable, so after sowing the bed covered with film or agrofibre.

The film must be removed during the day, and the shelter must be restored at night. This way, late frosts will not cause the death of seedlings.

Based on the information presented, we can conclude that it is not difficult to create favorable conditions for growing cucumbers. Timely prevention will prevent the plant from being damaged by pests and various diseases. And thanks to complementary feeding and irrigation, the cucumbers will be endowed with high taste qualities.

The cucumber has firmly settled in our gardens and has become an indispensable ingredient in many favorite dishes since ancient times. It received its name from Greek word"aguros", which means "immature". It was cultivated in Ancient Rome and Ancient Egypt, as evidenced by images on frescoes in temples. The earliest mentions of cucumber were found in ancient Indian manuscripts, the age of which is estimated to be about 6 thousand years. In India, a wild relative of our cucumber still grows - a liana that clings to tree trunks and climbs to a height of 20 meters in search of life-giving light.

Knowing how to care for cucumbers, following simple methods and recommendations from experienced vegetable growers, you can harvest a high yield of tasty and high-quality fruits even under unfavorable climatic conditions.

Preparing seeds and seedlings

Cucumbers are planted in the ground as seedlings or seeds. At seedling method When growing, the first cucumbers are harvested half a month earlier than when planted with seeds. Pre-planting seed treatment:

Such pre-sowing preparation concerns only varietal seeds cucumbers There is no need to warm up or process hybrid ones.

Cucumber seeds are sown in April approximately 2-3 weeks before planting seedlings in the beds. Prepare separate containers for seedlings or peat pots , fill them with soil mixture from:

• humus - 1 part;
• peat - 1 part;
• small old sawdust - 0.5 parts.

For 10 liters of prepared soil add 2 tbsp. l. wood ash and 1.5 tbsp. l. nitrophoska.

When the second true leaf appears, the cucumber seedlings are fertilized with a warm (+20 °C) solution of nitroammofoska or nitrophoska (dilute 1 tsp in 1 liter of water).

A week before planting in the beds, seedlings begin to harden, exposing it to fresh air for several hours.

Planting seedlings and cucumber seeds in the ground

Choose a bed for cucumbers that is well-lit, protected from drafts, and with fertilized, loose soil. Cucumbers can be planted in the same place no earlier than after 5 years. The optimal predecessors for them are green manure, carrots, legumes, beets, tomatoes, cabbage, onions, corn, potatoes, peppers, and green crops. Cucumbers should not be planted after members of the pumpkin family, because they are susceptible to the same diseases.

In the fall, the area planned for planting cucumbers is prepared as follows:

If you prepare a bed in the spring, then per 1 sq. meter contribute:

• organics - 8–10 kg;
• superphosphate - 20–40 g;
• potassium sulfate - 10–20 g;
• ammonium nitrate - 10–15 g.

The day before planting cucumber seedlings, water the bed with very hot water and copper sulfate(for 10 l - 1 tsp). 3 liters of solution are poured onto each square meter of bed.

Cucumber seeds are sown on a prepared area, when the soil warms up to a temperature of at least +10–12 °C, and the air warms up to + 15 °C using one of the methods:

• in rows - with row spacing of 70–90 cm and a distance between holes of 15–20 cm, deepening the seeds by 3–4 cm (2 seeds are planted, of which one sprout is left after thinning);
• nests - 60 x 60 or 70 x 70 cm, planting 4–5 seeds.

When the temperature drops below + 15 °C, the crops are covered with film overnight.

Cucumber seedlings are planted on open beds when the soil warms up to +17–20 °C. Seedlings should develop 3–4 true leaves. If there is a threat of night frosts, cover the bed with seedlings with film.

Watering cucumbers

Development of cucumber bushes in the soil, yield and taste of fruits depend on the quantity and quality of irrigation. Before the flowering period begins, plants are watered once a week, spending from 3 to 6 liters per 1 square meter. meter. During the fruiting phase, cucumbers need to be watered more often: once every 2–3 days, doubling the water consumption. In a dry season hot weather Cucumber beds will have to be watered daily.

Be sure to water with warm (at least 20 °C) and settled water early in the morning or evening, being careful not to splash the leaves or erode the soil at the roots. To do this, use a watering can with a divider. The soil is moistened to a depth of 15 cm.

In rainy weather, reduce watering. Excess moisture causes fungal diseases and root rotting. When the soil becomes waterlogged, drainage ditches are dug.

Attention! Dark green, brittle leaves on cucumbers indicate a lack of moisture, while pale green leaves indicate an excess.

Weeding and loosening

While the seedlings are young, the soil is loosened with simultaneous weeding after watering. This is done carefully, to a depth of no more than 4 cm, so as not to damage the cucumber roots located in the upper soil layer. Subsequently, in addition to loosening, the vines are hilled to form additional roots, which is a good prevention of fungal diseases.

Feeding cucumbers in open ground

For intensive growth of cucumber bushes, their active fruiting requires systematic feeding. The first feeding is carried out at the stage of appearance of the second or third leaf of the seedlings or 7–10 days after planting the seedlings in open ground with organic or mineral complex fertilizers in the following proportions:

• organics - in a 10-liter bucket of water, dilute 1 liter of thick mullein or a fermented solution of bird droppings and 2 cups of wood ash;
• complex mineral fertilizers - 50 g of superphosphate, as well as 15 g of urea and potassium sulfate are diluted in a 10-liter bucket of water.

Subsequent fertilization of cucumbers is carried out every 15 days. The amount of potassium and nitrogen fertilizers during the fruiting period it doubles. Fertilizing is carried out at the roots of plants in the evening, always after watering with clean water.

In addition to fertilizing the roots, caring for cucumbers includes foliar feeding. They are used as a supplement to root feeding, as well as during prolonged cold spells, when the root system of plants is not able to absorb nutrients from the soil. Foliar feeding alternates with root feeding. To carry them out, the same solutions are used as for root ones, but 2 times weaker.

Gives good results use of non-traditional fertilizing for cucumbers:

1. Wood ash is used up to six times throughout the season: as an additive to the soil mixture when sowing cucumber seeds for seedlings, in the phase of formation of the second leaf, during flowering and during the fruiting period - once every two weeks. Apply simultaneously with organic fertilizers or embed in upper layer soil (be sure to water the plants after this).
2. Yeast accelerates root formation processes. Soil bacteria, fed by yeast, are activated and enrich the soil with nitrogen and oxygen. This feeding is carried out up to three times per season. 10 g of dry yeast are diluted in a bucket of water, 2 tbsp is added to enhance fermentation. l. sugar or jam, leave for several hours. One liter of the resulting solution is diluted in 5 liters of warm water and watered under the root. Watering should be done when the soil is already well warmed up.
3. Honey feeding is carried out during the flowering period of cucumbers to attract pollinating insects. In one liter of heated water, dilute 1 tbsp. l. honey and spray the foliage.

A lack of nutrients or errors in care is indicated by the shape of the cucumbers:

Formation of a cucumber bush

An important component of caring for cucumbers when grown in open ground is correct bush formation, directly affecting the quality and quantity of fruits. To stimulate the formation of side shoots with female flowers, the main stem of late-ripening and mid-ripening varieties is pinched after the fourth or fifth leaf. Early varieties do not pinch, since the female flowers are formed on the main stem.

During prolonged rains in dense plantings, it is recommended to tie vines to trellises to avoid gray rot. To do this, string ropes between meter-long stakes driven into the ground and tie cucumber lashes to them.

The garter solves several problems:

• saves usable space on the site;
• protects against the development of diseases arising from contact of plants with the ground;
• as a result better illumination cucumber bushes set fruits and grow faster;
• makes caring easier cucumber bushes and harvesting.

To avoid injury to adult plants, gartering begins when the vines reach a length of 30 cm. It is convenient to use special nets for gartering cucumbers, which are pulled over trellises. Cucumber lashes are placed in the mesh cells and the vines begin to weave along them.

Pest and disease control of cucumbers

Cucumbers in open ground are more susceptible to diseases and pests.

The most common diseases of cucumbers:

The most common pests that attack open ground cucumbers are:

1. Aphids prefer young leaves. Affected leaves curl and wrinkle, plants stop developing and die. Insects up to 2 mm in size are clearly visible to the naked eye. Their spread is favored by humid and temperate weather. To kill pests, insecticides are used, which are recommended to be alternated.
2. Miners attack open ground cucumbers during the fruiting period. Miner fly larvae chew tunnels inside sheet plate, causing whitish patterns to appear on cucumber leaves. If the number of affected leaves is insignificant, they are torn off and buried. When pests are widespread, the same drugs are used as against aphids.

Harvest and storage

For the active formation of new ovaries and high yields During the initial period of fruiting, cucumbers are harvested after 2–3 days, and with the beginning of mass harvesting - every other day. It is not recommended to leave twisted, overgrown, diseased greens. When picking cucumbers, you should not lift or move the cucumber vines, so as not to damage the adventitious roots that form in the places where they come into contact with the soil.

The best time to collect greens is in the morning, when the fruits are maximally saturated with moisture. Harvested cucumbers should not be left in the sun. They do not last long, so they are canned, salted or pickled. To preserve for one to two weeks, place the cucumbers in a saucepan, fill with cold water, and cover tightly with a lid. The water needs to be changed daily.

Depending on their purpose, cucumbers of the following sizes are collected:

• 8–10 cm - for preservation;
• 8–18 cm - for pickling;
• 12 cm - for preparing salads and eating in fresh.

If you pick cucumbers often, small fruits for conservation. More rare fees harvest contribute to the formation of cucumbers for salads and pickling.

If there is a vegetable garden next to your house, it means that cucumbers are sure to grow there. This vegetable is so good fresh, pickled, or canned that it’s simply unthinkable without it. summer season. Therefore for cucumber experienced gardeners They will always allocate not just the best place, but also additional time for care. Knowing the characteristics of the crop, you can harvest good harvests even with very small area. We will reveal all the secrets of growing cucumbers in open ground in this article.

Cucumber. © Joe Quick

• What do cucumbers like?
• Features of growing cucumbers
• Caring for cucumbers during fruiting

What do cucumbers like?

When planning to grow this crop, you need to take care of a number of points that will lead to success. Each of them is based on the characteristics of the plant and is quite important. Therefore, you can’t miss anything, but you need to take a comprehensive approach to growing cucumbers.

1. Cucumber is a heat-loving crop

It is necessary to sow cucumbers in a sun-warmed bed after the threat of return frosts has passed and the top layer of soil has warmed up to +13-15°C. If you sow seeds in cold soil, they simply will not sprout. However high temperatures this vegetable is not to its liking - no matter how much the cucumber does not like heat, its best growth is observed at temperatures from +24 to +28°C. If the thermometer rises higher, development stops. Therefore, it is advisable to sow the crop in open beds from mid-late May (depending on climate zone) until the middle of the first ten days of June.

It is necessary to plant cucumber seeds to a depth of about 2 cm, taking into account the planting density - 5-7 bushes per square meter. This culture should not be thickened, as it should receive enough light and be well ventilated.

2. Cucumber loves to eat well

The place for growing cucumbers must be prepared in advance by fertilizing the soil with rotted manure (for the predecessor), mullein or chicken droppings (directly for the crop). In this way, the bed will receive a sufficient charge of nutrients, will be disinfected from a number of pathogens and enriched carbon dioxide, and cucumbers will be provided with adequate nutrition.

3. Cucumber – a crop with a shallow root system

Like any vegetable crop with a shallow root system, cucumber loves structured soil, good access to oxygen to the roots and sufficient moisture. But exactly this feature structure of its underground part and causes the greatest damage to the plant with illiterate human intervention.

The root system of the cucumber represents 1.5% of the total mass of the plant and extends to a depth (mostly) of up to 40 cm. The largest part of it lies only 5 cm from the soil surface and barely reaches 25 cm, so it is impossible to loosen the bed around the plant. Every time the top layer of soil near the cucumber stem is cultivated, its roots are injured and the plant needs more than a week to recover from the disease. Based on this, air permeability of the bed should be ensured not by constant weeding and loosening, but good predecessor, advance application of organic matter and mulching.

The best predecessors for cucumbers are: lettuce, early cabbage, cauliflower, peas and green manure. Acceptable: potatoes and tomatoes. Beans, carrots, zucchini and other melons are not suitable as precursors for cucumber, since they have diseases common to the crop.

4. Cucumber is a moisture-loving crop

Based on the structural features of the root system, cucumbers require a constant moisture regime for normal growth and development. Lack of moisture causes the plant's foliage to darken and become brittle, putting it in a state of stress. Excessive moisture reduces the amount of oxygen in the soil, makes cucumber leaves pale green, inhibits the growth of vines and the formation of greens. Constant jumps in hydration, combined with temperature fluctuations, provoke the formation of bitterness in fruits.

Irrigation with cold water is also not beneficial for this crop. This is due to the fact that cooled soil impairs the absorption ability of the root system. Therefore, the temperature of irrigation water should not be lower than +18°C.

The optimal soil moisture level for a cucumber is 80%, and the wilting threshold is 30%.

5. Cucumber – a short-day crop

Based on the fact that cucumber is a plant short day, best time Its cultivation occurs at the beginning and end of summer. This fact, with a competent approach, allows you not only to obtain high crop yields, but to use the useful area of ​​the garden with maximum benefit, filling the beds empty after early vegetables with summer (June) cucumber crops.

It is also worth knowing that this plant, despite its love for the sun and warmth, needs only 10-12 hours of photoperiod and is excellent not only for open areas, but also in light shade.

Fruit ovary on a cucumber. © CristinaFeatures of growing cucumbers

So, based on the characteristics of this crop, setting the goal of growing a good harvest of cucumbers, you need to tune in not only to regular watering, but also regular feeding, regular mulching, regular fruit picking, since it is consistency in caring for this vegetable that plays a key role in success.

Preparing the soil for planting cucumbers

Planting a cucumber begins with choosing a location and preparing the soil. This is important, since this culture loves light and responds well to fertility. Therefore, if possible, the beds should be organized from north to south, organic matter should be added under the predecessor or the soil should be filled with fertilizers immediately before planting the vegetable.

Cow manure is considered the best fertilizer for cucumbers. Under the predecessor, it should be applied in a rotted form, at the rate of 4-6 kg per square meter, and immediately before sowing - as a mullein tincture (1 part fresh manure to 5 parts water). If there is no manure, it can be replaced with chicken manure (diluted with water 1x20) or any available complex mineral fertilizer.

The most a good option growing cucumbers there are warm beds no lower than 25 cm high. Having an organic cushion inside, they not only provide the plants with the necessary nutrients, but also saturate the roots with carbon dioxide and produce a warming effect.

Planting cucumbers in open ground

Many people believe that in order for a cucumber to produce a high yield, it must be planted exclusively seedling method. However, if the conditions of the climate zone in which you are gardening are quite mild, it is good to sow cucumbers directly into the beds.

It is better to do this in several stages, both in order not to miscalculate the timing of sowing (suddenly the cold returns unexpectedly) and in order to prolong fruiting. You can start sowing from mid-May (in the south) and continue until mid-June. There is no point in planting cucumbers later, since long daylight hours and high summer temperatures are not conducive to their normal development.

Due to the fact that modern selection has taken care to develop not only zoned varieties for each individual climate zone, but also disease-resistant hybrids, it is worth choosing them. This will protect you from unnecessary hassle and allow you to get a truly high-quality, rich harvest.

In addition, it is necessary to pay attention to the ripening time of the selected variety and its purpose, since these can be early-ripening, mid-ripening or late-ripening cucumbers, as well as universal, pickling or salad cucumbers.

If the last fact is not indicated on the seed label, look at the picture: cucumbers intended for preservation have black pimples, while those that are good only fresh have white pimples.

For sowing, it is better to choose seed that is at least two years old. This is due to the peculiarity of melon seeds to increase germination with each additional year storage (from 2 to 6 years, then germination rate drops and by 9 years the seeds become unsuitable for sowing), and to form on plants obtained from such seed material a larger number of female flowers, from which fruits are formed.

Cucumber. © Hidetsugu Tonomura

Watering cucumbers

Regular, high-quality watering is a fundamental factor in growing a decent harvest of cucumbers. It should be carried out in the holes between the rows and often enough to keep the soil constantly moist. It is better to water the cucumbers in the evening, or at the same time in the morning, preferably before the heat starts. warm water(from +18 to +25°C), without moisture getting on the leaves. Before flowering, watering should be moderate, and during fruiting – abundant.

Feeding cucumbers

If the soil is not filled with a sufficient amount of organic matter under the predecessor or in the pre-sowing preparation of the bed, cucumbers must be fed regularly. Feeding begins after the formation of 2-3 true leaves and continues throughout the entire fruiting period.

Cucumbers are most responsive to nitrogen, but for full development they need both phosphorus and potassium. Therefore, most often, experienced gardeners alternate the application of mineral fertilizers with organic matter. The best choice in this matter would be ammophoska (10-15 g per 1 sq.m.) and mullein solution, or chicken droppings. But if the weather is cold outside, fertilizing is useless.

Hilling cucumbers

It’s good to hill up the exposed roots of cucumbers several times a season. This will allow the plants to grow additional roots and protect their stems from fungal diseases.

Shaping or pinching

A separate component of cucumber care is the formation of plants. It is necessary in order to provoke the development of lateral shoots, on which a larger number of female flowers are formed. Shaping is done by pinching the central stem of the cucumber over 5-6 leaves. In this case, early ripening varieties can not be formed, but the development of late and mid-ripening varieties can be corrected.

Techniques for increasing cucumber yield

Based on the characteristics of the crop, experienced vegetable growers have long found out that high-quality care and pinching of vines are not the only tricks in terms of increasing the yield of cucumbers. There are other ways to enhance the formation of female flowers. One of them is to temporarily stop watering just before the crop begins to flower. This technique makes the plants “think” that they may soon die and provokes intensive fruit formation.

Another option for increasing productivity is to mix different varieties and hybrids of the crop in plantings - this enhances cross-pollination of cucumbers.

You can also ring the stems - make a shallow circular cut under the first pair of leaves of the plant (the procedure is carried out only in dry weather), which will impede the flow of nutrients to the roots and contribute to the formation more ovaries.

At the moment of decline in the formation of greens, you can produce foliar feeding cucumbers with urea (at the rate of 20 g per 10 liters of water), but only on a humid evening or in cloudy weather.

Increases productivity and removal of the first ovary. This technique allows you to strengthen the plant root system and gain strength to form large quantity fruits You can also try to attract bees to your site - either by planting honey plants, or by placing drinking bowls with aromatic syrup.

A separate word must be said about the supports. Since cucumber is a climbing plant, the best option its cultivation is a vertical arrangement. Supports can be different options: inclined, vertical, arranged along the bed or in a circle - whatever suits you. The main thing is that the plants on them will not touch the ground, they will be better ventilated, it will be easier to harvest from them, which means they will get sick less and bear more fruit.

Cucumber. © jenniferworthenCaring for cucumbers during fruiting

Peak fruiting for cucumbers begins in July. It is important to continue watering and harvest on time. Better collection produce every other day, maximum two, in the early morning hours, since cucumbers collected in the evening wither faster and are stored worse. It is necessary to remove everything, including twisted and unsightly fruits, since each cucumber left on the plant delays the formation of new ovaries. In this case, the cucumbers should not be pulled or unscrewed, but carefully trimmed garden shears, or pinch with your nails, as injured lashes get sick and form a worse harvest.

Along with greens, every time you inspect the garden bed, it is good to remove yellowed and disease-affected leaves - this will keep the plants strong and healthy, and prolong their fruiting.

Propagation of your favorite varieties

If the variety of cucumbers you bought this year actually pleased you with the harvest, then it is advisable to collect seeds from it. To do this, it is necessary to leave a certain number of large healthy fruits on several plants (no more than three per bush) and allow them to ripen. However, it makes sense to do this if it is really a variety, since the hybrid does not reproduce the mother plant from seeds, so leaving it for propagation is useless.

Most types of various vegetables have already been planted that tolerate cool weather well: beets, potatoes, carrots. In mid-May, warm weather gradually begins to set in outside. This period is just ideal for planting cucumbers in open ground. But if it’s still cold outside, then you need to use special protective equipment and cover the cucumbers with film or agril after planting.

Cucumbers can be planted either sprouted or with simple seeds. The advantage of a sprouted cucumber is that it begins to yield faster, but it is more difficult for it to take root in new conditions. To germinate, cucumbers are planted in small jars in April, such as mayonnaise jars, and placed in a sunny place in the house.

Planting cucumbers in open ground

Cucumbers are generally heat-loving plants. Therefore, the location of the planting site should be on the sunny side of your garden.

It is better to prepare the soil in advance. Apply the necessary complex fertilizers and humus. Sprinkle the ground with water properly.

Cucumber seedlings are planted at a distance of 10 centimeters from each other; there is no need to separate them, they love space. If you plant sprouted cucumbers, make a hole about five centimeters deep, and deepen the seeds two centimeters into the ground.

In a week or a week and a half, the cucumbers will sprout and will delight the owner. If the cucumber bed was covered with material, it should be removed only after installation warm weather over 20 degrees.

Water the cucumbers in your garden every day. They love moisture and its lack can lead to detrimental consequences.

A mandatory requirement when growing cucumbers is to pinch out excess shoots and remove them.

When the cucumbers reach the required length, create a frame for them from boards or twigs along which they will weave. Or you can put posts along the edges, connect them with a strip and tie the plants with strings.

In principle, cucumbers are not a particularly fastidious plant in terms of caring for them, but loosening and weeding the soil under them needs to be done regularly. It is also good to fertilize on time, for example with a solution based on chicken manure.

Many summer residents are thinking about growing early seedlings and receiving good harvest. Favorite species vegetable crops are tomatoes and cucumbers. Cucumber - very heat-loving plant, it is capable of producing high yields on open areas, which are protected from cold and drafts. The soil for them should be fertile and well moistened. But in Lately cases of plant diseases began to be observed, from which not only adult plants, but also seedlings die.

Pick the first cucumbers quickly - this stimulates fruit formation.

Therefore, gardeners switched to growing cucumbers in closed soil.

Methods for growing cucumbers

There are two ways:

1. In the greenhouse. Inside the greenhouse, they cover the soil with a film, this is necessary so that the earth warms up better. Additionally, they add manure (preference is given to cow manure, which can be combined with horse manure). To do this, remove the fertile layer of soil - 20-30 cm, lay down manure and cover with the excavated soil. Fresh manure serves as heating; the decomposition process occurs over the course of a month. Inside the greenhouse, beds are formed with a width of 0.6-0.7 m and a height of up to 50 cm. After 7-10 days, seedlings are planted or seeds are sown. When early shoots appear, the film should be slightly lifted and solar time ventilate, since the temperature under the film can reach incredibly high levels, and young shoots can burn.
2. In a greenhouse. To create a greenhouse use fresh manure or all the components for compost heap: old leaves, fresh waste and vegetable trimmings, sawdust, shavings and other organic material. With a higher concentration of fresh plants, the compost will begin to decompose faster. To speed up this process, you can add a little manure or special chemicals, accelerating the process of compost maturation. Fresh soil is placed on top of the compost and the bed is ready. You can already plant in it ready seedlings in cups or peat tablets, or simply in the ground. But it should be borne in mind that the temperature in a compost bed is much lower than in a manure bed, so this device is suitable for more warm regions countries.

Since cucumbers grow with a shallow root system, a layer of fertile soil should be on top, and tall and medium height beds provide drainage for plants.

When choosing a site, you should remember its compatibility with the crops that previously grew in this place; planting seeds and seedlings should be done taking these factors into account.

The presence of crops from the pumpkin family in this area has a negative effect, because they can accumulate various diseases, which will hinder the growth of new plants. And any representatives of previously planted legumes and nightshades will have a very beneficial effect on the growth and yield of cucumbers.

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Conditions for planting seeds

For sowing, choose the largest seeds to ensure 100% germination. The method of planting plants affects only the time of fruit ripening; both types of planting - seeds and seedlings - are equally effective. The most suitable temperature for seed germination is 26-28°C, at warm beds Shoots appear in 4-5 days. With the emergence of seedlings, it is advisable to reduce the temperature to 16-18°C; at night, the recommended temperature is no more than 14°C. Regulating heat allows you to maintain the growth of seedlings and allows the root system to strengthen. While growing seedlings, they are fertilized. When preparing top dressing, it is necessary to calculate the correct ratio of nutrients applied: for 1 liter of water you should take 1 g of saltpeter, 3 g of superphosphate, 2 g of potassium sulfate. After fertilizing, the shoots are watered with warm water (water temperature no more than 25 °C). In this way, possible fertilizer residues are washed off from the leaves, and the leaves will not be burned when sun rays

The presence of crops from the pumpkin family in this area has a negative effect, because they can accumulate various diseases, which will hinder the growth of new plants. And any representatives of previously planted legumes and nightshades will have a very beneficial effect on the growth and yield of cucumbers.

. Seedlings can be planted in open ground or a greenhouse after 4-5 normally developed leaves have formed.

Boarding time The time of planting is determined by weather conditions, in the region, by the air inside the greenhouse. But general rules landings are:

Agrotechnical techniques for growing cucumbers: 1- Sowing seeds on a damp paper napkin; 2 - Transplanting sprouts into pots; 3 - Landing on permanent place; 4 - Pinching the top; 5 - Pinching side shoots; 6 - Fruit collection.

• several days before planting young plants experienced gardeners It is recommended to pour boiling water or hot water over the beds; you can also plant them in warm soil that has not yet cooled down;
• the soil temperature for planting should not be less than 16-18°C, 24°C would be more desirable;
• inside the greenhouse the temperature should reach 20°C. For heated greenhouses this will be a period from approximately the end of April to mid-May, when planting in unheated greenhouses- no earlier than mid-May;
• The best time to plant seedlings is in the evening, when it gets a little cooler. For the first few days after planting, it is recommended to water the plants frequently and shade them a little so that they can more easily tolerate transplantation. Seedlings should be planted no more densely than 3-4 pieces. per m²;
• It is best to place the beds on south side greenhouses, where they will receive more light and heat than in the north.

The presence of crops from the pumpkin family in this area has a negative effect, because they can accumulate various diseases, which will hinder the growth of new plants. And any representatives of previously planted legumes and nightshades will have a very beneficial effect on the growth and yield of cucumbers.

Plant care

The main condition for obtaining good yields is good care. Cucumbers are grown in greenhouses at a temperature of no more than 24 ° C; in cloudy weather it is reduced by several degrees, and at night it is lowered to 18 ° C.

After a few days, the plants are tied with a rope to a wire fixed at the top of the greenhouse. For gartering, twine with a diameter no thinner than 20-30 mm is used. One end of it is thrown in a free loop over the plant between 2 or 3 leaves, and the other is thrown over the wire. The height from the plant to the roof of the greenhouse should not be less than 2 m. The length of the twine is calculated so that the free end is about 60 cm.

During the growth of shoots, a gradual garter is made: twine is wrapped around the plant between 2 leaves, only clockwise. To increase the level of illumination, the plants are tied in a checkerboard pattern; for this purpose, two parallel wires are pulled at the top of the greenhouse with an interval of no more than 50-60 cm from each other.

Hand pollination of flowers: 1 — female flower cucumber; 2 - Male flower; 3 - Male
flower with torn petals; Below - hand pollination.

It is necessary to loosen the soil near the stem as needed, after watering, as the soil compacts, but do this before the root system branches. After the root system has grown, pierce the ground with a pitchfork or a metal rod once every two weeks. When roots appear on the surface, add peat mixture, humus or ordinary soil.

Preference should be given to the lower form of irrigation, when water flows directly under the root of the plant. Sometimes they collect drip system or construct grooves or holes to direct water.

During growth, plants need the formation of healthy and fruit-bearing bushes. The plant is pinched 10-15 cm above the stretched trellis, side shoots at a distance of 3-4 leaves are also removed, then the side shoots are shortened when 2 or 3 leaves appear on them.

When growing varieties of hybrids and powerful bushes, more careful formation is carried out:

• as the bush grows, shoots and flowers are plucked at a height of up to 25 cm from the lower leaf formation, a blinding zone is formed;
• as it grows, 4-5 lateral processes appear at a height of 50-75 cm above the blinding zone; they are shortened to one leaf and one ovary. When forming the next 50-75 cm, two leaves and two ovaries are formed on the side shoots, and three leaves and three ovaries are formed on the upper part;
• The main stem is thrown over the trellis and pinched at the 3rd or 4th shoot. And the shoots that will appear later are left to grow further.

It should be:

• Short-fruited, with a length of greens from 6 cm to 25 cm.
• Shade-tolerant, not afraid of temperature changes.
• Early or mid-season, with a fruiting period of 4 to 6 months.
• Fruitful.

Preference is given to parthenocarpic hybrids F1. These self-pollinating plants have only female flowers. For growing cucumbers at home, the most popular are early and ultra-early:

• April;
• Benefit;
• Zozulya;
• Carmen;
• Goosebumps;
• Sail;
• Regina;
• Shchedrik;
• Crunch.

Of the mid-early cucumber varieties for growing at home, the following are preferred:

• Athlete;
• Full house;
• Showcase;
• Bianca;
• Berendey;
• Urban;
• Far Eastern;
• Claudia;
• Courage;
• Marinade;
• Masha;
• Manul;
• Romance;
• Solar.

IMPORTANT! Late ripening cucumber hybrids for home grown unsuitable.

Bee-pollinated cucumber hybrids, when grown indoors or in greenhouses, require hand pollination.

The process requires certain skills and additional time.

But despite this, vegetable growers grow at home bee-pollinated cucumber hybrids:

• Gribovsky 2;
• Zarya;
• Manul;
• Surprise;
• Khutorok;
• Relay race.

Grow and bee-pollinated cucumber varieties:

• Room Rytov;
• Marfinsky.

Advice! Hand pollination of cucumbers is carried out in the morning. Using a cotton swab or soft brush, transfer pollen from the male barren flower to flowers with an ovary (female). Can male flower with torn petals touch the female pistil.

Female single flowers grow separately. The males form groups in the leaf axils.

Pollination of cucumbers continues throughout the flowering period, right up to the appearance of the first ovaries. To increase the yield of cucumbers experienced lovers advise pollinating female flowers with pollen of different varieties.

Selecting a location

It is better to grow cucumbers in an apartment on warm, bright balconies, loggias, verandas, windows oriented to the south, east, west.

The north side is not suitable for growing. There should be no drafts in the room.

What to grow in?

There are many options: hanging baskets, buckets, containers, boxes, flower pots, tubs. The main thing is that the volume of the container is at least 5 liters. Drainage is laid out at the bottom - small pebbles, pieces of expanded clay, large sawdust. Make holes to remove excess water.

Advice! To save money, cut off large plastic bottles and use double cellophane garbage bags.

How to grow cucumbers in an apartment: step-by-step instructions

Landing dates

Deadlines depend on the selected cucumber variety, growing conditions. They take into account the area of ​​the room, the ability to provide optimal temperature and light conditions, air humidity, and climate zone.

TO New Year's table The cucumbers planted at the end of October will ripen. Plantings in January begin to be harvested in March. The average time for fruiting to begin from the appearance of the first shoots is 40-50 days. February seedlings are ripe for the May holidays.

Soil preparation

They buy in the store universal soil or mixture for growing pumpkin crops.

Prepare yourself according to proven recipes:

1. Equal shares of peat, humus. A glass of wood ash in a bucket of mixture.
2. 1/3 part of turf, garden soil, compost with the addition of a small amount of calcined river sand, ash, rotted sawdust.

The earth is disinfected in one of the following ways:

• Steamed.
• Spill hot (+ 90°C) solution of dark pink potassium permanganate.
• Warm up in the oven.
• Processed special industrial preparations.
• Apply nitrophoska or complete complex fertilizer. Pour into containers, pour generously, and leave for a day to compact.

Sowing

1. Cucumber seeds pickled for 20-30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Rinse. Dry it. Leave for 2-3 days to swell in a saucer with warm water, wrap in damp gauze, place on cotton pads. Read more about before.
2. Hatched cucumber seeds sow to a depth of about a centimeter. Plant 1-2 seeds per volume of one liter at a distance of 2-3 cm from each other. .
3. Place in a bright place. Maintain temperature + 22-25°C during the day, + 16-18°C at night.
4. For supporting required humidity covered with film, glass.
5. When cucumber shoots appear, the cover is removed. Remove the weak sprout. Additional illumination begins.

Advice! To eliminate the danger of overcooling the root system of cucumbers, place a sheet of foam plastic, drywall, or thick plywood under the containers with plantings.

Lighting

It is impossible to grow cucumbers at home in winter without lighting.. Daylight hours should last 12-14 hours. from December to February, additional illumination is carried out from 16 to 20 hours.

Lighting devices for additional illumination (energy-saving, fluorescent, LED) are mounted at a distance of 30-40 cm.

To enhance the effect, install sheets of foil and mirrors that reflect light.

Temperature

Until the plants form lashes, the temperature is maintained not higher than +16°С. After the formation of lashes, the temperature on sunny days is maintained at + 24-26 ° C, in cloudy weather and at night + 18-20 ° C.

Watering

Watered in sunny weather daily, on cloudy days - every other day. The water must be left to settle and brought to room temperature. Water several times a season with a weak pinkish solution of potassium permanganate.

It is useful to spray the plants twice a day, but the leaves should dry out by night. Watering cucumbers is carried out at the root or water is poured into trays.

Advice! To increase the humidity in the room, cover heating batteries wet towels. Place a bowl of water next to the cucumber bushes. Humidifiers are turned on.

Support

Home-grown lashes reach a height of up to two meters and require a garter. The garter is made using a sliding loop. Use twine or nylon cord.

Bush formation

After the fifth true leaf appears, pinch the top to form a bush with two stems. When the next five leaves grow, the procedure is repeated.

Pinching of the side lashes is carried out in the lower lateral nodes above the 1-2-3 leaf.

Top dressing

The first is carried out after two true leaves appear. Feed with a solution of 3-4 g of nitrophoska per liter of water. The consumption rate per plant is a glass.

Can be used a solution of one teaspoon of urea in 5 liters of water. Feed once every 2 weeks.

With the appearance of greens, the plant is fed every week, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers. 20% solutions of chicken manure or superphosphate are used as organic additives. For minerals, dissolve 30-40 g of nitrophoska in a bucket of water, add a teaspoon of Agrolife or 2 caps of the drug Rost along with watering.

Alternatively, after a week feeding cucumbers with vermicomposts. Spray the bushes twice with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Advice! Excellent organic matter is a solution of fermented crushed banana peels, rye bread.

Diseases

Cucumbers grown in apartments also suffer from whiteflies. Spraying helps soap solution, using insecticides in an apartment is dangerous.

Harvesting

Zelentsy collected every day, preventing them from overgrowing. This promotes the formation of new ovaries, eases the load on the vines, prevents depletion of the plant and deterioration in the taste of cucumbers.

Growing in a private home

The agricultural technology is no different from growing cucumbers in an apartment. However, the villagers, cottage owners more possibilities For successful cultivation cucumbers in heated greenhouses all year round.

Features of greenhouse agricultural technology

• Stop choosing greenhouse varieties cucumbers
• When planting, be sure to add at least a bucket of well-rotted compost or manure into the hole, with the addition of 10 g of phosphorus, 5 g of nitrogen, 15 g of potassium per 1 m².
• Upon landing cucumber seedlings are placed at a distance of 40 cm from each other, leaving a meter between the rows. Water generously.
• Equip trellises and supports.
• The cucumber bush is formed as if grown at home.
• Remove yellowed and deformed leaves.
• First feeding after 4 weeks. For each plant, 1-2 liters of 0.3% aqueous phosphorus-potassium solution is consumed. During the fruiting period, fertilizing is carried out every week.
• At optimal temperature Air watering is carried out at the rate of 2-3 liters of water per bush.

Prevention and control of diseases

• Should change the soil annually. Develop beneficial microflora. Apply preparations such as Fitosporin M, rotted manure, and nettle infusion.
• Observe ventilation mode.
• For whiteflies, the soil is disinfected. Once every 5 days the bushes are sprayed with karbofos.
• Dill, mustard, coriander, garlic, basil, tobacco are planted between rows.. They repel cucumber pests.
• Aphids and whiteflies are washed off with a stream of cold water. Wipe the cucumber leaves with soapy water.

Can I grow it in the basement?

In an equipped basement, up to 200 kg of cucumbers are harvested from 1 m².

The main costs are to ensure optimal light and thermal conditions.

Requirements for a basement room for growing cucumbers

• Temperature should not fall to minus levels throughout the year.
• No rodents, mold, mildew.
• Tightness, protection from drafts and groundwater penetration.