Building a bathhouse is not as complicated a process as it might seem at first glance; having at least basic skills in construction, you can easily do it yourself, thus saving a considerable amount of money. This is explained by the fact that in itself, a building of this level is much easier to erect than a residential building due to its size and technical characteristics.

However, despite the above, errors in the construction of a bathhouse can seriously affect its further operation. Despite the fact that it does not belong to the category of main structures, its assembly should not be taken lightly, as this can be fraught with serious consequences.

Like any other construction process, the construction of a bathhouse has its own characteristics, compliance with which is mandatory if you want to get a high-quality result of your own efforts.

The secrets of building a bathhouse are not varied - the main thing is not to forget about their existence at the appropriate stages of the construction of the future building. Unfortunately, even step-by-step instructions for building a bathhouse do not always contain the necessary information and describe only the process itself, without taking into account its characteristic features.

Bath installation

Design

Design is one of the most important parts of the construction process - if the project is drawn up incorrectly, then even its high-quality implementation will not bring the desired result. If you are building a regular bathhouse, without using any special bold ideas– you can totally do it yourself.

There are certain building codes that contain maximum and minimum valid values, however, when designing a bathhouse yourself, the first thing you need to be guided by is common sense. That is, it is necessary to take into account the location and decide on the design of the future building.

If the layout of rooms is carried out solely on the basis of personal preferences, there are some parameters that must be observed.

As stated above, most of the planning for the future structure largely depends on your wishes, however, there are some rules that are provided by law. First of all, this concerns the location of the bathhouse relative to other rooms.

When designing, few people ask the question “How much to retreat from the fence when building a bathhouse?” Although given value is regulated by SNiP and looks like this:

• At least 1m from the fence;
• At least 8m from a neighboring residential building;
• It is necessary to retreat at least 5 m from the boundary of the site;

Pay attention!
These figures were compiled on the basis of paragraph SNiP 30-02-97 on the planning and development of private plots with buildings and structures.

Failure to comply with the rules described above may lead to the fact that you will not be able to begin operating the constructed structure if the owner of the neighboring site contacts the relevant authorities.

In this regard, the question of how many meters from the fence a bathhouse can be built is best decided in advance with the participation of the owner of the adjacent plot, or in strict accordance with the standards described above.

Also, if you are going to add an attic to the bathhouse, then before designing you should make sure that the foundation and walls have sufficient load-bearing potential to withstand the additional load.

Material

Baths come in different types and can be clearly identified necessary features the purchased material is quite complex - it all depends on the circumstances of each individual case.

However there are several general rules, which it is advisable to adhere to when choosing building materials for a bathhouse.

• Brick . Choosing to give preference to hollow products, since their thermal insulation characteristics are several times higher than those of standard analogues. Heat retention is the main parameter of a good bath. The price of bricks with internal voids is slightly higher than the cost of solid samples, but in this case it completely justifies itself;
• Tree . We should not forget that in the steam room there is always increased level humidity, therefore the wood must be properly treated to minimize the likelihood of rotting. In addition to the impregnation and external processing of wood, you should also pay attention to its origin - conifers contain a large amount of mineral resins, which play the role of natural impregnation;

Pay attention!
In this case, we mean frame parts and other rough materials - treated or coniferous wood is practically not used for interior decoration.

• Insulation. It is advisable to give preference to environmentally friendly items. There is enough pressure in the steam room high temperature- Some synthetic materials can release toxic formaldehyde, which is used to form them. Under normal conditions, harmful fumes are minimal, but the higher the ambient temperature, the greater the likelihood of toxic substances being released;
• Vapor barrier. High humidity negatively affects the structure of the insulation, regardless of its origin and without a vapor barrier layer it will quickly become unusable. For insulation, it is best to use glassine with a one-sided layer of foil - it will not only effectively protect the insulation from moisture, but will also reflect heat, concentrating it indoors;

To find out what is needed to build a bathhouse and calculate required quantity building materials that you need, you can use a bathhouse construction calculator, which estimates the approximate amount of required resources.

Foundation

The main mistakes in the construction of a bathhouse are made precisely at this stage, since craftsmen who are not experienced in this matter believe that the small size and, accordingly, the weight of the building allows them not to pay much attention to creating the foundation.

Ultimately, this leads to various problems, including deformation of the overall structure of the building. Like a residential building, a bathhouse must be built in accordance with the basic building codes and the foundation is no exception.

Regardless of the size of the future building, the foundation must be laid below the freezing level of the soil. Deepening the foundation and backfilling is a prerequisite for the formation of any foundation, and deviation from this technology will be fraught with serious consequences.

During winter, the soil inevitably freezes to a certain depth, and in the spring the reverse process occurs - if you place the foundation on such a basis, then its damage is inevitable.

Pay attention!
The above-described procedure for performing work remains unchanged when installing a columnar foundation.
Support pillars must also be installed below the freezing level of the soil on a previously filled foundation.

Also, some builders advise reducing the dimensions of the foundation, motivating this by the small size of the structure. This cannot be done under any circumstances, since the strength of the foundation and its seismic resistance are directly proportional to its dimensions.

It is unacceptable to fill a foundation less than 60 cm wide (the depth depends on the level of soil freezing, the amount of backfill and the presence of a cushion).

Walls

For a bathhouse, the main thing is high thermal insulation and, accordingly, the walls should be built based on this requirement. Accordingly, additional insulation will be appropriate in almost any situation.

It is optimal to use frame structures, which together high-quality insulation will create the proper level of thermal insulation, while minimizing the cost of constructing a bathhouse.

Interior decoration

It's no secret that it's made of wood. However, few people think that without proper processing, wood will quickly acquire an unsightly appearance. However, any chemical impregnation or coating is not recommended to avoid the release of toxins.

It is undesirable to use coniferous wood, since when heated it begins to release resins that can burn the skin.

To preserve wood in its original form under the influence of moisture and high temperatures, it is necessary to subject it special treatment natural protective agent. The most optimal coverage is a wax that has a transparent structure, is easy to apply and effectively protects the wood from water and drying out.

Bottom line

Building a bathhouse from scratch is a multi-stage construction process that is quite difficult to do on your own. However, having certain skills and using our advice on building a bathhouse, you can easily carry out this process yourself and get a high-quality result of your own efforts. You can get more detailed information by watching the video in this article.

16.09.2016

Almost every person understands what it is used for, which means there is no point in dwelling on it. After the hustle and bustle of the city, relaxing in such a bathhouse will be a real pleasure. This pleasure will be three times more powerful if you do this. Sometimes people prefer to create this type of comfort for themselves in the form of a bathhouse, however, to do this they will have to spend considerable time choosing the appropriate materials, boards, beams for floors and ceilings, rafters - everything that is needed for quality work. Still, this is all an extra waste of time and effort, plus it is often not always possible to ensure the appropriate level of quality. That is why it is customary to use the opportunity to order these works from a construction company that can guarantee the completion and assembly of baths.

Russian bath

Let's start with a simple one, whose outer walls are usually built from round logs. Coniferous trees are recommended for this - pine, spruce. However, not everyone is aware that not every pine tree is suitable for the construction of a bathhouse, that is, not every wood will be durable in this form. For a bathhouse that is being built in middle lane, experts recommend choosing spruce or pine from the northern region. They grow in a climate similar to ours, but much slower than ours, which is why their wood is denser. Hence the low level of wood moisture; Moreover, this log also absorbs moisture to a lesser extent. You, undoubtedly, can choose southern pine - it is more porous, but in this case, do not be surprised if after a couple of years the lower crown of your favorite bathhouse begins to. The secrets of building a bathhouse also lie in the fact that the diameter of the logs used for this should be 20-25 centimeters: thinner - fraught with heat loss, thicker - bulky and inconvenient in construction.

In rural areas, bathhouses “for the whole family” are common. Their sizes may vary, depending on the number of washable ones.

They must be built tightly, laying them to the freezing depth. Heavy walls made of concrete, red brick and stone are placed on a solid strip foundation based on well-burnt red brick, rubble stone, or iron ore and concrete. Red slit and sand-lime brick not suitable for laying foundations. A wooden foundation quickly collapses. The base is erected 0.5 m above ground level, its top is leveled with cement mortar in a ratio of 1:3 (cement:sand).

Concrete, brick and stone walls strong but cold. As they heat up and cool down, they condense intensely, as a result of which water leaks usually appear on them. Wooden floors and the walls avoid it. They heat up easily and do not allow condensation to appear, and if the wood is dry, the condensation is immediately absorbed into it. After cutting the log house, it is recommended to treat the tow and logs with an anti-rot antiseptic, after which everything is thoroughly dried and only after some time can you start assembling and caulking thoroughly. Regardless of the material used, the walls may be plastered on one or both sides with a solution of cement and lime. Laying should be done using the same mortar.

It can be plank, slate, tar paper, tile, roofing felt, reed, straw, steel. Its overhang is lowered onto the walls by no less than 50 cm. It is recommended to make the attic area ventilated. Some time before firing, the windows are closed to ventilate the attic area.

Window in the washing room

There is only one window, placing it no higher than one meter from the floor, 40-60 cm wide and 60-70 cm high. It is best to create two frames, leaving a distance of 10-15 cm between them. It is recommended to install the glass on double putty. The cracks between the frames and the frame are treated with putty so that heat does not escape through them. At the same time it is used in the dark artificial light. Electric and kerosene lamps must be protected from dripping water to prevent them from cracking and causing severe injury to those present. Electric lights are very convenient in baths. must be made of tightly insulated wires.

Waiting room

The bathhouse invariably consists of a washing area. It is preferable that the dressing room be warm and serve as a locker room. To keep it cool to a lesser extent, an extension with a door should be installed in front of the front door. To heat the dressing room, one side of the stove must protrude into it, sometimes from the side of the firebox. To organize a locker room you need a bench and hangers. The window in the dressing room can be the same size as in the washing room, or maybe different. Double bindings are also desirable. If your dressing room is cool, then you need to take off your clothes in the washing room, but so as not to wet your clothes with water.

The floors in the bathhouse are laid in different ways. But regardless of the design of the floor, the plant layer is cut to a depth of at least 15 cm. If it is necessary to level the floor or raise it to any level, but not more than the level of the foundation, then in this case slag, crushed stone, gravel, sand, earth are used, compacting compact them tightly. An earthen floor is the simplest, but water soon turns it into a swamp. Boards laid directly on the ground greatly improve it. Some secrets of building a bathhouse say that the clay floor does not allow water to pass through at all or does allow water to pass through, but very little. The boards laid on it are often below the level of water drained during the washing process, which is not hygienic, because the boards after washing noticeably deteriorate over time and emit an undesirable odor. To improve earthen floors, proceed as follows: step back 50 cm from the foundation, select soil to a depth of at least 50 cm (the deeper, the better) and pour gravel or sand into the hole formed in this way. The gravel is subsequently backfilled with sand, after which boards are laid. In this case, the water will not linger and flow into the hole, and then be absorbed into the ground. The odors from this water are insignificant in this case.

Internal processing

The internal treatment of the bath also has its own specifics. Typically, aspen is used for interior wall cladding, and less commonly, poplar or alder. The same species are used for finishing saunas, as well as linden and cedar. Wood of all these species is moisture resistant, is not very susceptible to splitting and splintering, and in turn has a low heat capacity - it does not heat up even at high temperatures. In addition, these rocks do not actually exude resin. Although many people like their aroma, when heated to high temperatures, resinous tree species release the aromatic substance pinene, which in large concentrations leads to toxic poisoning, and therefore can negate the entire healing effect of the bath. For the construction of shelves, backs and fences, exotic African wood is sometimes used - abashi, which is allowed to be used in the sauna even at particularly high temperatures. But this wood is quite expensive.

Conclusion

So, a properly built bathhouse on its own territory is the best thing ever. After all, the bath will bring you enormous benefits, unforgettable pleasure and pleasant moments spent in the steam room and shower.

After you have chosen the material for finishing the bathhouse and selected siding, this can be a pretty decent amount that you may not be able to afford, and in this case you will have to do everything yourself.

Novosibirsk You can buy finished project bath complex fully equipped.

It is possible to build a bathhouse yourself, without resorting to the services of professionals, but maybe nothing will work out, especially when self-confidence is present, and your hands and head are not growing in the right places. If everything is fine with your hands and head, you have time, but you don’t care about money, you need a clear plan of action. Each bathhouse is a complex, regardless of size, and the construction of a bathhouse must be approached in a comprehensive manner. Below are recommendations for building an inexpensive bathhouse on our own from foundation to shelf. If you follow all the recommendations, the bath will turn out right.

First tip- try to facilitate the initial phase of construction as much as possible, that is, choose the most simplified and cheap option foundation, in accordance with the characteristics of the soil on your plot of land.

Second tip- taking into account financial capabilities, you need to specifically decide what material you will use to build a bathhouse, based on the same installation: with your own hands.

Third tip- decide with the whole family what kind of bathhouse you need: small and simple, 2x2 m, 2x3 m in size, or it is better to build a large, comfortable one once for many years with a separation of the washing room from the steam room, installation of a bath or shower and a spacious dressing room. The dimensions of such a bathhouse can be from 3x3 m to 4x5 m. A good bathhouse would also benefit from a terrace or veranda, which can be attached to a small bathhouse. In general, the size of a family bath is determined by the size of the family.

I would like to immediately warn independent developers that when constructing a large wooden bath a family team must have one good specialist carpenter. The same can be said in the case when you decide to build even a small log bathhouse, since even then you need to have the skill of cutting walls “in a claw” or “in a paw”, and also be able to choose the right grooves. Therefore, a family builder can only handle wooden sauna from timber, if he wants to build it himself. The construction section discusses all these issues in detail. I would like to hope that his advice will help the future builder of an individual bathhouse. Simple types of heater stoves developed by the author are offered. Another important problem is where to place the bathhouse on the plot of land? It is clear that for an ordinary citizen a family bath should not require both high costs when installing it, it should not take up much space on a limited plot of land.

When building a house, it is necessary to provide for the adjoining of a bathhouse to it, that is, the joint location of a residential building and a bathhouse on the building site. It will be best option. A separate bathhouse must be built taking into account the topography of the land. Possible slope of the soil is used to facilitate water flow. The ideal is to drain the used water into an existing sewer. In other cases, the water drain (drainage pit) should not be located near an existing source drinking water- wells, boreholes, and also have a soil slope towards these sources. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the interests of your neighbors on the land plot so as not to harm them.

If you are planning to build a black bathhouse, then the distance from it to other buildings and to the border of the site should be within 12-14 m or more. It is also necessary to take into account the prevailing direction of the wind (wind rose) in order to prevent sparks from hitting neighboring buildings when heating the bathhouse. The requirements for the location of a modern white bathhouse are less stringent; it can be erected at a distance of 5-6 m from other buildings, it is even possible to combine (adjoin) a bathhouse and a residential building. In this case, to the top chimney install a spark-extinguishing fine mesh. The bathhouse can also be combined with a separate summer kitchen located next to the house. This is the most preferred option. The windows of the bathhouse should face west or southwest, so that in the evening the rays of the setting sun create a soft, cozy lighting. It is advisable to build a bathhouse with a terrace or veranda, which in the summer will serve as a place for relaxation and evening family tea, and in the winter will be used as a firewood warehouse. Ideal option The location of the bathhouse is considered to be near a pond, river (25-30 m) or the installation of at least a small pool near the bathhouse, where you can plunge into after the steam room.

Bath walls

From time immemorial, a real Russian bathhouse was made from chopped logs, and nowadays from beams of coniferous trees: , . A log wooden bathhouse is incomparably better than various modern brick, concrete or panel bathhouses. A sauna made from solid logs is especially good (they “breathe”); such a sauna actually does not require ventilation; a sufficient amount of air penetrates and simultaneously escapes through the logs, thus providing ventilation. Additional ventilation holes in a wooden bathhouse must be installed, but they must be small, which significantly reduces heat loss and makes the bathhouse economical.

For log baths, it is necessary to select straight, preferably dried (seasoned) logs. To have dried logs, they are sanded raw, stacked, carefully covered with roofing felt and kept for a year before construction of the bathhouse begins.

When constructing walls, you can also use freshly cut logs, but in this case, special measures are required to reduce cracking of the logs during their drying in assembled log house. To do this, in the lower part of each log ready for laying, one or two deep longitudinal cracks must be made, preferably to the core, that is, half the diameter of the log.

The number of logs for a log house depends on their diameter (160-200 mm, but it is better to use logs 180-200 mm) and the height of the ceiling of the bath, which should be 220-240 cm, taking into account the subsequent settlement of the log house. Thus, 14-16 logs will be required for one wall of the log house. The log walls of a bathhouse are built in the same way as the walls of a residential village hut. Spruce is considered the most preferable for cutting walls; it is widespread almost everywhere, is more durable and does not have large resin stains. Logs for external walls are cut on one side, for internal walls - on both sides. Hewing of logs must be done to a depth of 2-3 cm. One closed row of logs is called a crown. The crowns, stacked on top of each other, form the frame of the bathhouse.

The felling of the walls begins with the laying of the first (flashing) crown, which is made from the thickest logs, hewn on both sides at an angle of 90°: one side is laid on the foundation, the other forms the beginning of the internal wall of the bathhouse. Before laying the casing, it is necessary to level the surface of the columnar foundations cement mortar, using a two-meter staff and a level. After leveling the foundations, waterproofing is installed on top of them using two layers of roofing material and hot bitumen. Then a wooden lining 50-60 mm thick and at least 150 mm wide, completely covered with tar or hot bitumen, is laid around the perimeter of the waterproofing. Before laying the trim crown, tow, dry moss or strips of mineral felt are laid out in an even layer on the lining. The lower surface of the casing, which is laid on the lining, must also be impregnated with tar or hot bitumen. The casing crown is installed on the foundation level to ensure its horizontalness. The log house of the bathhouse must be laid out along the entire perimeter at once; the logs in the log house are stacked alternately with their butts in different directions so that the horizontal rows are maintained.

Corner notches of walls (wall assemblies) are performed in two ways. The first method is called felling, which provides better strength of the log house and its durability (Fig. 5). With this type of felling, the log house turns out to be more stable; the protruding parts of the logs protect the corner of the log house well from rain. But this method is less economical, since 0.5-0.6 m of each log is not used.

When cutting a bathhouse “in the oblo”, the cup can be selected from the bottom or top side of the log, respectively, and the walls are cut either with the cup down or with the cup up. When chopping “in the clear” with the cup down wooden walls baths last longer than with other types of cutting. Simultaneously with the removal of the cup, grooves are cut out in the lower part of each subsequent log, which can be semicircular or triangular. The width of the groove is made within 10-14 cm depending on the thickness of the log and climatic conditions. To insulate the bathhouse, dry moss, tow, and hemp are placed in the grooves and cup.

To make the log house stable, it is advisable to tie each row of logs to each other with round or rectangular tenons. A round tenon (dowel) should have a diameter of 25-30 mm, a rectangular tenon for logs up to 220 mm has dimensions: 25x60x120 mm. Spikes are made from dry, dense wood (oak, beech, ash). The tenons are spaced from the corners of the walls at a distance of 200-250 mm, and from each other at a distance of 1.5-2 m. When installing a tenon in a nest, it should not reach the bottom of the nest by 8-10 mm to avoid cracking of raw logs during drying .

Let us consider in detail the process of cutting the walls of a bathhouse “in the oblo”. First, the two lower logs must be laid horizontally (level) on the foundations (wooden lining) at an equal distance from one another. Then the two second upper logs of the casing crown are laid on them exactly at right angles. After laying the logs, you can begin work on connecting the logs “into the burrow”. You must first make special device, which carpenters call a “dash.” To do this, you can take an ordinary wooden or metal hammer and fasten (weld) two pointed metal rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm and a length of 150 mm on its outer plane. With the help of this manufactured device, you can already begin marking cups on logs. When marking the cup, the wire legs of the “features” are moved apart by half the diameter of the upper log. Then they place a “line” perpendicular to the upper log so that the wire legs are in contact with the surface of the logs, after which they move one leg horizontally along the upper log: then the second leg will draw an arc on the lower log.

: 1 - cup marking; 2 - groove marking; 3 - groove; 4 - notch

This operation must be performed on both sides of the top log. This way we get arc marks on the lower log, indicating the place where the cup is cut. The same operation must be done at the other end of the log. Then, according to the intended risks, cups are cut out with an ax at both ends of the log. The removed upper logs are placed into the finished cup nests, the density of their planting and the correct cutting of the cups are checked. The second (upper) logs should be raised above the level of the first (lower) logs by half their diameter. After the logs of the frame crown are tied, the first logs of the second crown are laid on it, with the butts in different directions. They are laid along the same vertical line with the logs of the frame crown. Along the laid first logs of the second crown, the line device is again moved to apply marks under the cups on the second logs of the frame crown. The cups are carefully cut out and the first logs of the second crown are placed in them. Then they begin cutting out the longitudinal groove. Set the legs of the device to the depth of the groove and draw marks for the longitudinal groove between the first logs of the first and second crowns. The devil device is moved horizontally so that one leg moves along the lower log, and the other along the upper one. The groove marks must also be transferred to the cups, due to the fact that their depth increases with the depth of the groove. The “line” is moved from both sides of the upper log, on which it is necessary to select a groove. After this, the log is turned over with the marks up and, with an ax, after 300-400 mm, primary notches with a depth of 20-30 mm are made and then the wood of the log is gradually selected along the length of the groove to the depth of the spread legs of the “line”. When the groove has been selected along the entire length of the log, you must once again make sure that its depth is the same along the entire length of the groove, and only then the log is placed in place. In this way, the indicated operations of cutting and laying all the crowns of the log house are carried out sequentially. If you have little experience in carpentry or a great desire to have your own bathhouse, you can, guided by the methods described, cut a log house using the first method with your own hands.

Second cutting method log house baths - . This method is much more complicated than chopping in the middle; it cannot be done without a carpenter with extensive experience and qualifications. Connecting logs “into the paw” requires accuracy and careful execution, otherwise the corners of the log house will turn out cold and no amount of insulation will help you. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality and rectangularity of the corner of the log house. To do this, carefully mark each end of the log so that the dimensions of all “paws” are the same in plan, and the height of each “paw” is proportional to the thickness of the log. Of all available logs, processing begins with the log that has the smallest diameter at the top (in the cut). They begin to trim the log first on one edge, with a width at the beginning of the cut of at least half the diameter of the log. As the edge approaches the butt, the width of the edge will be the same until the middle of the log, and then it becomes a little wider due to the runoff - an increase in the diameter of the log towards the butt. Then, on the side opposite to the first edge, a second edge is hewn with a length equal to one and a half to two log diameters. The remaining two edges are made with a length equal to the diameter of the log and a width equal to the width of the first edge. After this, the first one is carefully marked on the square piece and carefully cut out. This “paw” will actually be a template for all subsequent ones, which are made with a small allowance on all sides. The sealing grooves are marked and selected in the same way as when cutting walls into a “cloak”.

Let's consider the sequence of processing and preparing the end of a log when cutting “in the paw”. Before cutting, as mentioned above, the end of the log is hewn into four edges, each to a certain length: one edge is hewn along the entire length of the log (this will be the inside of the wall), the second edge, opposite the first, is hewn to a length equal to one and a half to two diameters of the log, the other two edges are hewn to a length equal to the diameter of the log or slightly larger than the diameter. The end of the log, hewn into four edges, should have the shape of a square beam, that is, all sides should be the same, equal to segment a on the “paw” marking diagram (Fig. 7).

Then the vertical sides of the hewn square and its end are divided by 8 equal parts and through the marked points draw lines parallel to the sides of the beam. The resulting corners of the square are marked with letters, and thus we have the following edges: AB; VG; DE; ZhZ. After this, we put 1/8 of the rib on the VG rib, 2/8 of the rib on the AB and Zh ribs, and 3/8 of the rib on the DE rib. We connect the marked points with lines, and thus we get the edges of the “paw”, which are equal: along the edge VG - 6/8, along AB and ZH - 4/8, and along DE - 2/8 of the side of the beam. After marking, you should carefully and carefully cut off the excess layer of wood - and we will get the first “paw”

In this way, all other “paws” are cut down on the logs. The sealing longitudinal grooves are marked and selected in the same way as when cutting a log house “in the burrow”. To ensure the stability of the logs when assembling the walls and to prevent them from shifting, the logs are connected to each other with round tenon pins (dowels). They are placed at a distance of 400-500 mm from the corner of the log house and 1.5-2.0 m from each other. Before assembling the log house, it is necessary to turn special attention on the lower edge of the flashing logs, with which they are laid on the foundation. The underside of the log should be very well and evenly planed, then the sealing heat-insulating material (dry moss, hemp, tow) will fit snugly to the foundation underlay.

When “feet” are made on all the logs of the future log house, then it is necessary to make an adjustment, joining the “feet” with each other. The final fit of the “feet” is ensured during the preliminary assembly of the log house, during which laying is not performed thermal insulation material into the grooves of the logs. When assembling the walls of a log house “in a paw”, the crowns of the log house are fastened together with inserted round tenons 10-12 cm long and 25-30 mm in diameter. They are placed at intervals of 1.5-2.0 m along the length of the log and in a checkerboard pattern along the height of the log house. After preliminary assembly of a log house made of raw logs, it is left to dry in assembled form for several months. When the logs give up a little moisture, they must be marked at each corner separately, and the log house is dismantled. The final assembly of the bath according to the marks is carried out already on the tow. Taking into account the subsequent settlement of the walls, it is necessary to leave a gap of 3-4 cm above the window and door frames. The depth of the nests for the tenon pins is also made 5-6 mm larger. The gaps above the window and door frames are filled with thermal insulation material and then, after the walls have settled, the appropriate board is inserted and caulked.

To reduce to a minimum the airflow of the seams between the logs of the log house, they must be caulked twice: the first time - when final assembly baths and a second time - after the walls of the log house have completely settled, that is, after about a year.

Caulk of a log house for a bathhouse

Caulking is the compaction of tow, hemp, and dry moss into the cracks and grooves between the logs of the log house crowns and in the corners of the corners. Compaction is performed with a spatula, made in the form of a pointed wedge with a handle, and a special mallet. It is quite possible to make a spatula and a beater yourself according to the proposed sketches. These compaction tools are made from dense wood species (oak, beech, ash). Sealing the walls of a log house can be done in two ways: “stretched” and “set”.

“Stretched” caulk is used to seal cracks and grooves in the following way: a strand is made from tow, which is placed against the groove (crack) and pressed there with a spatula. The compaction is repeated until the entire gap or groove is filled, and the tow must be carefully compacted with a spatula. After filling the groove (slot), a roller is made from tow, which is inserted into the groove. Before this, small strands of tow are pulled out of the groove a little and wrapped around the finished roller. Then the roller attached to the groove is forcefully driven into the groove using a spatula and a mallet until the groove is completely filled with the roller.

Caulk “as a set” is produced to fill wide grooves and cracks. To do this, long strands with a diameter of about 2 mm are twisted from tow and a set of loops is made from them, which are hammered into the groove. The number of strands collected depends on the width of the gap or groove; in any case, they are hammered in there until the gap is completely filled. The tow is compacted first along the top and then along the bottom edge of the log. The caulking begins from the lowest groove and is done along the entire perimeter of the lower crown of the bathhouse.

Attention! You cannot caulk the entire wall separately; this can lead to distortion of the frame and will require its disassembly. Therefore, caulking of a log house must be done sequentially from the bottom up along the entire perimeter of the log house, starting from the lowest crown.

After performing caulking work on the outside, you can move on to caulking the internal walls. It must be done twice; once during the final assembly of the bathhouse and a second time after the frame has completely settled, that is, after about a year. After the second caulking of the log house, you can, if desired, cover the walls with clapboards both inside and outside.

Bathhouse made of timber

It is not recommended to cut a log bathhouse on your own without sufficient experience, as you can hopelessly ruin the logs, which no craftsman will ever take on. Therefore, you can decide to build a wooden bathhouse yourself if you assemble it from cobblestone walls. They are made from beams of different sections, depending on design temperature outdoor air in your region: at 30°C use 150x150 mm timber, at 40°C - 180x180 mm timber. For the internal walls of the bathhouse, beams of 100x150 and 100x180mm are taken, respectively. Cobblestone walls are the simplest both in their design and, naturally, in cutting the corners of the walls and their decline. Assembling walls from beams is much less labor-intensive than cutting log walls. It is quite possible for an amateur developer to build a bathhouse from beams. This construction is the most economical, since the timber of the timber is used almost entirely. The only disadvantage of a cobblestone bathhouse is the need to more carefully protect the corners of the log house from rain and cold.

Walls and corners can be cut from timber in various ways(Fig. 10), the simplest of them is cutting walls on spikes. With this method, the timber is laid with alternating joining of the ends, the joining of the crowns is ensured using round dowels 25-30 mm, made of dry dense wood.

: A - on spikes; B - “half a tree”; B - root thorn

: I - log walls; II - cobblestone walls

The second way to cut timber walls is “half a tree”. In this case, the pairing of the beams in the corners is ensured by laying half sections of the beams and fastening them with the help of a long dowel connecting several crowns at once. The third method of connecting block walls is provided with the help of a root tenon. This is the most complex method, in which a tenon is cut out on a beam and inserted into the corresponding groove of another beam. With this method, the crowns are also fastened with round dowels. The pairing of internal walls with external ones, cut from timber, can be done in the most in a simple way- by alternately joining the ends and fastening the crowns with round tenons.

You can connect the inner wall with the outer one “in half a tree”, which is not very complicated and time-consuming. When cutting walls made of timber, the crowns of the log house are also lined with tow, and after laying out the walls, the grooves are caulked. If they want to achieve minimal ventilation of the walls, then sealing metal tapes or triangular strips are punched along the seams in the crowns. After the walls have settled, to protect the corners of the bathhouse from precipitation and cold, they are sheathed with 25 mm thick boards lined with felt or tow. If the family has the means, then to reduce the ventilation of the walls, they can also be sheathed with planed boards 16-22 mm thick or clapboard on slats nailed to the walls. This work is carried out only after the walls of the bathhouse have settled (after a year and a half). External cladding They are produced with horizontal boards, internal boards - vertical.

Bath floor installation

The floors in the bathhouse are not so crucial for ensuring warm mode like walls and ceiling. Therefore, in the usual, separately standing bathhouse the floor can be made in the usual version from boards along joists. Only in the Siberian bath, given the frost below -50° C, are the floors made of thick wooden blocks that fit well together.

For a small individual bathhouse measuring 2x2 m, 2x3 m, the supporting surface for the floor joists is the flashing logs. The logs must be impregnated with antiseptic or tar. The floors are laid from tongue-and-groove or edged dry boards with a thickness of 19, 22 or 29 mm, made of coniferous wood. For baths large sizes(3x3, 3x4, 5x4m, etc.) floor joists must be laid on brick or concrete pillars with a cross-section of 250x250 mm, which are located at a distance of 70-80 cm from each other. The pillars are installed on sand or concrete base. Before laying the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove, and also to think over and prepare a drainage system for removing used water. This is a fairly important problem, since poor water drainage can ruin the bathhouse itself and its location.

If the soil on the site is sandy, that is, it easily absorbs water, then you just need to limit yourself to constructing a regular drainage hole under the bathhouse, the dimensions of which depend on the size of the bathhouse and water consumption (for example, 70x70 cm and 60 cm deep). The hole must be filled with broken bricks, large crushed stone or gravel. Around the pit, the soil is compacted with a tamper and covered with roofing felt with a slight slope on all sides towards the pit. In the case of clay soil, draining used water from the bathhouse will require much more work and expense. Instead of a pit, it is necessary to make a concrete pit measuring 50x50 cm, 40 cm deep and 10 cm thick. To drain water, use a drainage pipe with a diameter of 50 mm or more, it is installed at a distance of about 10 cm from the bottom of the pit. A water seal must be installed at the end of the drain pipe to prevent unpleasant odors from penetrating into the bathhouse.

Currently, plank floors in bathhouses are installed without cracks and are solid. At the same time, water drainage is provided in the steam room and washing room, so the floor boards are laid with a slope towards the drain hole located in the area of ​​the drainage pit (pit). It is advisable to cover the solid floor in the steam room and washing room with light, removable plank flooring, and in the dressing room with thick mats, so as not to cool your feet in winter. The plinth in the bathhouse must be made waterproof to protect the edges of the floor from rotting; its height must be at least 8-10 cm. The plinth itself is covered with an overlay internal lining walls, or a metal belt made of some kind of foil. The cover should prevent water from getting onto the baseboard.

It is unacceptable to cover the floor in the steam room with any synthetic material, since at high temperatures harmful gases will be released there: in the washing compartment it is allowed to lay linoleum with tightly glued edges to prevent the floor boards from getting wet. A concrete floor in a brick or other permanent bathhouse is installed on a compacted base of sand (100 mm) and crushed stone (100 mm). The floor must be insulated, that is, with laying a 30-50 mm heat-insulating layer of felt, expanded clay or perlite-cement screed (perlite - 5 parts, cement - 1 part, water - 3 parts). A layer of felt or expanded clay is immediately covered with 5 cm of concrete, a pearlite-cement screed is covered with 3 cm of concrete 7 days after its installation. Then the concrete, after it has set, is leveled with cement mortar and covered with ceramic tiles. The concrete floor in the steam room and washing room is also made with a slope to the side drain holes. To remove moist air from the subfloor and dry it, ventilation holes are installed in the base of the foundation. This will ensure constant ventilation of the space under the bathhouse floor, eliminating the formation of odors and rotting of the floor boards.

Bathhouse ceiling and roof

Due to the fact that the highest temperature in the bathhouse is at the ceiling level, the greatest heat loss can occur through it. A poorly insulated ceiling will not allow you to maintain the current temperature in the steam room for a long time. Abundant steam condensation on the ceiling is the first sign of poor thermal insulation. Therefore, if there is steam condensation on the ceiling, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the insulation. In simple log sauna Usually a rolled ceiling is installed, that is, hewn and well-fitted log blocks or planks 50-60 mm thick are laid on the top frame of the walls of the bathhouse. The roofing is covered with a vapor barrier material (tar paper, glassine, foil), onto which a layer of crumpled clay 1.5-2 cm thick is then applied. Then, backfills (100-150 mm) of wood shavings moistened with cement are made over the clay to insulate the ceiling. expanded clay or a mixture of dry peat and black earth. Where it passes through the ceiling chimney the backfill is made only from expanded clay or other fireproof material. To ensure passage through the attic of the bathhouse, boards made of boards are laid on the leveled layer of insulation.

The second option for installing a ceiling in an individual bath is a false ceiling, which is made by covering the bottom with edged or tongue-and-groove boards 25 mm thick along the floor beams (Fig. 12). A layer of vapor barrier (glassine, foil) is placed on these boards, then 100-150 mm of thermal insulation, which is covered on top with external ceiling boards. This option also provides protection for the ceiling from fire where the pipe passes.

Roof of the bathhouse. Currently, the roof of a bathhouse is usually made of relatively cheap and available materials- asbestos-cement sheets (slate) or roll material(roofing felt, roofing felt), sheet roofing steel is used less often. In the old days, wood shingles were used for roofing, or layers of dense turf were laid on a thickened continuous sheathing. A roof made of corrugated asbestos-cement sheets is usually laid on a wooden sheathing of 50x120 mm beams, located at a distance of 80-100 cm. Asbestos-cement sheets must be secured to the sheathing with special anti-corrosion slate nails with a head, the length of which is 100-120 mm; nails are driven into the crests of the waves of adjacent sheets, placing sealing washers made of felting felt or rubber under the heads. The roof ridge is covered with galvanized steel sheets. Rolled soft roofing is made from roofing felt, roofing felt or glassine, which are laid on a solid wooden flooring.

First, a galvanized sheet ridge is secured to the top of the solid flooring with nails, then an underlying layer (roofing felt, glassine) is glued over the solid flooring with bitumen mastic heated to 170-180° C. Attention! You must work with heated bitumen mastic very carefully; the bucket in which the mastic is fed on a rope should not be completely filled; you must work in canvas gloves and boots. The continuous flooring is covered with a layer of hot mastic and strips of the underlying layer (tar paper, glassine) are sequentially glued, overlapping the strips by 100 mm and then securing them with roofing felt nails. These strips are laid across the ridge with the end of the roll transferred to the other side of the ridge by 200-250 mm.

Then a roll of roofing material is laid over the underlying layer on hot bitumen mastic, a strip of which is also thrown 200-250 mm over the ridge. The second strip of roofing material is shifted by half the width of the roll in relation to the adjacent glued strip (Fig. 14). Each roll of roofing material glued to the base must be immediately ironed well to avoid bubbles. After laying the roofing felt rolls is completed, the edges of the soft roof are secured with nails to the eaves using wooden slats. On slopes, the soft roof is folded under the sheathing by 15-20 cm and also secured with tar paper nails along wooden slats. Properly made roll roofing with bitumen mastic usually lasts 15-20 years. Roll roofing, installed without the use of mastic, lasts two to three times less: 8-10 years.

Windows, doors, shelf arrangement in the bathhouse

The main thing in a bathhouse is to ensure and long-term maintenance in all its premises, especially in the steam room, the necessary thermal conditions, which is especially important in winter time. Therefore, in order to maximize heat conservation, the requirements for the location, size and design of windows and doors for an individual bathhouse differ significantly from similar requirements for standard products, as well as from SNiPs of residential and industrial buildings. First of all, windows and doors for bathhouses are made in small sizes, which should be within the following limits. Windows: height - 450-600 mm, width - 650-800 mm. Dimensions of the entrance door and washing area: height - 1600-1700 mm, width - 600-700 mm. Steam room door: height - 1500-1600 mm, width - 550-600 mm. The height of the external threshold can be in the range of 100-150 mm; the height of the threshold of the door to the steam room in order to reduce heat loss is made about 200 mm. From the above dimensions it is clear that windows and doors for a bathhouse are significantly different from ordinary ones. You must enter a Russian bathhouse, bending slightly, as if showing respect to this temple of purity and health.

All doors are single-leaf, and they must open outward, which is necessary for safety reasons. They try to make the windows in the log house of the bathhouse as low as possible. In the “black” room, the bottom of the window is located from the floor at a height of 0.5-0.6 m, in a modern washing room the windows are located slightly below head level, that is, the bottom of the window should be at a distance of 0.9-1.0 m from the floor, and in the steam room, the bottom of the window is located approximately at the level of the top shelf. The windows in the bathhouse must be double glazed; they must open, which will greatly facilitate ventilation and drying of the premises after a bath day. Locking devices and hinges for windows are used from metal that is not subject to corrosion (brass, copper-plated). For additional lighting of the premises (washing room and dressing room), you can make small windows in the upper part of the door.

Steam room doors are made of boards 19-22 mm thick. A layer of felt or other heat-insulating material is laid between two board skins, then a vapor barrier made of foil or glassine is laid on both sides of the board skin. Entrance door made from boards about 40 mm thick, which are knocked together into door leaf through a tongue-and-groove connection.

Stainless steel hinges (brass, copper-plated, etc.) are also used to hang doors. The door handle on the steam room side should be made of wood; all other doors can have ordinary handles. Shelves in the steam room of a Russian bath are made of two types: stationary, in which it is advisable to make the top shelf folding (on hinges), or completely removable, which is much more convenient, since they can be removed for cleaning and drying. In an individual bath, removable shelves are more preferable. The boards and slats used to construct the shelf are completely smooth, but they cannot be impregnated or coated with any varnishes, paints or solutions. Each plank must be carefully processed on all sides, first with coarse and then fine sandpaper, so that there is not even the slightest burr on the front surface. In addition, all corners on the planks, especially external ones, must be rounded. It is advisable to make shelves from wood species with soft wood, for example, linden, poplar, aspen, since the boards made from them are “cooler”.

In the steam room, two-tier shelves are usually built, and for large family baths - three-tier ones. They are most often placed along a wall that does not have a window. The size of the top shelf is usually taken based on the average height of a person, that is, it is 175-185 cm long and 65-70 cm wide. In general, the dimensions of the shelf, as well as benches and beds, depend on the area of ​​the family bathhouse. For a good family bathhouse 3.5x4 m, its premises can be of the following sizes: dressing room - 150x300 cm, washing room - 180x200 cm and steam room - 180x180 cm. They try to place the top shelf approximately at the same level with the stones of the stove, so that the space around the shelf is better heated . The height between the top shelf and the ceiling should be sufficient so that you can sit comfortably and freely steam with a broom (100-110 cm). The second shelf is located approximately 70-80 cm from the floor, its width is 45-50 cm. The third tier is actually a bench for sitting and washing, which can be placed in a row with other shelves or placed along another wall. Then, near the two-tier shelf there are portable, wide and stable benches so that you can easily climb up and down to the desired tier. For the same purposes, a small reliable ladder is also installed. In a large steam room, the second lower shelf is sometimes placed against another wall in order to be able to steam simultaneously on two levels without interfering with each other. In Fig. Figure 16 shows an option for constructing a three-tier shelf, as well as the placement of a window in the steam room.

To fasten the boards to the shelves, galvanized and copper-plated nails or screws are used, the heads of which must be recessed into the wood. The thickness of the boards for arranging shelves and benches depends on the distance between the supports. The greater the distance, the thicker the board should be. For example: boards 20-25 mm thick are used for benches with a distance between supports of 500 and 900 mm, respectively; boards 40 mm thick are used at a distance of 1200-1300 mm. To ensure strength and reliability, the width of the support strips used should not exceed four times the thickness of the board. When arranging shelves, you cannot use boards with numerous and large knots, that is, it is necessary to place increased demands on the strength and reliability of the boards in order to avoid possible injuries and accidents. In the interior decoration of the steam room, it is not advisable to have bright and irritating objects to the eyes; its interior should invite the visitor to calmness and tranquility.

Bathhouse foundation

The future owner of an individual bathhouse, having chosen its location on his land plot, as well as the project (dimensions and internal structure), I must solve another important question: what kind of foundation to build under the walls of the bathhouse. Choose a foundation that is as cheap as possible, less labor-intensive and at the same time reliable. For the right decision this important issue it is necessary to know exactly the type of soil on the site and its depth groundwater. If the soil on your plot of land is rocky, gravelly or densely sandy, that is, dry and dense, and the depth of groundwater is low, then for a wooden bathhouse you can choose the simplest old-fashioned foundation - a columnar one, installed directly on the bedrock soil.

To do this, having removed the plant layer from the entire construction site, large flat stones, small concrete slabs(500x500 mm) or brickwork. If the bathhouse is large, then it is necessary to install additional pillars, maintaining a distance between them along the perimeter of no more than 1 m. The height of the stone pillars above the soil level should be within 250-300 mm. Thus, the total height of the columnar foundation is about 50-100 cm, depending on the thickness of the plant layer. After installing the foundation, the top of the columns is leveled with cement mortar and waterproofing is made from hot bitumen and two layers of roofing felt, while simultaneously leveling the top. That's it, your foundation is ready for laying the lower crown of the bathhouse frame.

Attention! To protect the bottom of the log house from rotting, it is necessary to tar the logs of the lower crown (frame) of the bathhouse frame, cover it with tar or impregnate it with an antiseptic. If there are impregnated railway sleepers, then they can be used as linings, and then only the lower part of the frame logs will need to be tarred.

Such simple columnar foundations can be made in an even cheaper and more accessible way. The log house of the bathhouse is installed on wooden vertical pillars-chairs. The lower, recessed part wooden post it must first be burned (as our grandfathers did) or soaked in tar or hot bitumen and then installed in the ground. A columnar wooden foundation is arranged in various ways. In option I (Fig. 2), a wooden post is installed on a concrete support; for better fixation and fastening, the post must be immersed in concrete by 10-15 cm. In the second option, a small support - a cross - is secured at the end of the wooden post using metal brackets and a notch. In both options, under the supports they arrange sand cushion 100 mm thick. Laying depth wooden foundations depends on the density of the soil and can range from 80-90 cm to 1-1.2 m.

A wooden foundation, especially one made of oak or larch with a surface well protected from rotting, can last for decades. Gaps between columnar foundations and lower crown The bathhouses are filled with rubble stone, brickwork or crushed clay mixed with chopped straw. Along the perimeter of the bathhouse, a concrete blind area 40-50 cm wide must be installed. If the soil on the site is clayey, loamy, with high level groundwater, then you can perform fairly cheap and simple drilling or pile foundations. They are buried to the depth of soil freezing in the region where you live, plus another 20-30 cm.

Bored foundations can be either using pipes with a diameter of 120-150 mm (metal, asbestos-cement), or filling only one well concrete mixture(Fig. 3 and 4). In the latest version top part well, it is necessary to install a piece of pipe 500-600 mm long, which will serve as a pile cap.

In order to prevent contact of concrete or soil with the pipe at the top of the pile, an insert made of galvanized roofing sheet is installed on the pipe, which will prevent the frozen top layer of soil from pushing the concrete pillar out of the well. In areas with a very high groundwater level, you can build columnar foundations from concrete pillars, which anyone can easily make themselves. They are made in homemade formwork, using, at least slightly, wire reinforcement with a diameter of 5-6 mm. Concrete pillars measuring 100x100x2000 mm are driven into wells drilled to a depth of 1500 mm, followed by filling the gap between the pile and the ground with sand, that is, the well is drilled with a diameter greater than the cross-section of the pile by 50-60 mm. In order for the manufactured pile to be driven well into the ground, its end must be made in the form of a cone. For baths with heavy, massive walls made of brick or concrete, it is necessary to install permanent strip or columnar foundations with a grillage. The designs of simple foundations outlined above are suitable only for wooden Russian baths, chopped from logs or beams. This type of foundation has been used by our ancestors for centuries.

A Russian bathhouse should smell like freshly planed wood and birch brooms, don’t you agree?!

And there is no greater pleasure than inhaling that hot smell of wood, feeling the hot steam and goosebumps all over your body after a glass of ice water...

What place on the site should be allocated for a bathhouse?

Traditional Russian bath- This is a free-standing log structure. If there is a lake, river or stream on or near your property, you are incredibly lucky! Best place For baths than near a natural reservoir with clean fresh water water, hard to find! But this is not at all a necessary condition. After all, a natural body of water can be replaced with an artificial one, for example, a swimming pool!

It happens that they want to combine a bathhouse with a house. And it's possible! But it is necessary to consider the optimal design of waterproofing, ventilation and sewage systems. And, of course, you need to ensure reliable system fire safety.

Do you want to choose a place to build a house and a bathhouse on the left bank of the Amur?

IN Regional real estate office village Nikolaevka they will help you choose the best one plot for building a house and a bathhouse on the banks of a river, stream or lake! Just click on, go to the agency’s website, see photos of wonderful places in the Amur region, contact agents!

What should a bathhouse be like?

As a rule, a bathhouse should have three compartments: washing, steam room And rest room(dressing room, locker room).

Entrance door to the bathhouse it is best to go south, because in winter with south side There are fewer snowdrifts and they melt faster.

A bathhouse windows- on the western or southwestern facade, since the bathhouse is usually heated in the evening, and the rays of the evening sun continue to penetrate the windows for a long time.

To decide on overall dimensions of the bath, which you want to build, you can use the minimum standards: for each person there must be at least 1 sq. meters of area steam rooms and 1.3 - 1.5 sq. m dressing room. Let's say you are planning a bathhouse for 3 or 4 people. Then the steam room should be made about 4 square meters. m.

For example, like this: the length of the steam room is 2.5 m, the width is 1.5 m interior wall. The area of ​​the steam room will be 3.75 square meters. m. Such a steam room area will give you the comfort that you will never regret. For further calculations, use the ratio “steam room-washing room-rest room” - 1:2:3. This ratio has been tested in practice.

Optimal dimensions log house It is generally accepted to be 3x5 m or 3x6 m. Please note: log bathhouse, and not a frame structure around the log house of the steam room! That is The entire structure must be made into a single frame.

For example, a five-wall 3x5 m, where 1.5 -2.0 m is the width of the steam room, the remaining 3.5-4 m is the washing room, and the relaxation room is upstairs, under the roof, in the attic. The log house will give you the comfort that you will never have if you just create frame walls around the steam room. And believe me, financially, you will also lose quite a bit with the frame option.

Are we going to install windows in the bathhouse?

Bath windows usually small in size: 450-600 mm high, 650-800 mm wide.

In a paired compartment there is no need for a window at all, but for some reason it is often considered mandatory. In the steam room you just need to make a couple of vents for ventilation: small holes in different levels and in opposite corners, which must be closed with an insulated insertable wooden plug both outside and inside.

How to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse?

An important point when construction baths is the thermal insulation of the ceiling.

For thermal insulation in the washing room, use modern basalt or mineral wool insulation. But in the steam room, it is better to cover the ceiling with a layer of earth, peat, sawdust or a layer of dry leaves, on top of which is expanded clay, especially since this is where the chimney exits through the ceiling, so it is better to use expanded clay as a non-combustible material.

How to insulate the floor of a bathhouse?

The ground underneath wooden floor it is necessary to fill it with a layer of sand and gravel or a sand-gravel mixture as drainage, with a slope towards the drainage pits. From such a surface, moisture evaporates faster and water does not stagnate.

From the washing room and from the steam room, take the drainage pits, which are also filled with gravel, outside drainage pipes. To further guarantee the drainage layer of the ASG, lay PVC sheets along which the water will immediately roll into the drainage pits. These events will definitely give you a guarantee that floor boards will serve for a long time.

What else do you need to think about before starting construction of a bathhouse?

All other nuances when independently construction of a bathhouse Many people know: the logs will need to be sanded, sanded with an electric sander, coated with an antiseptic outside and inside (except for the steam room), etc. In the steam room, all wooden surfaces can be left natural or covered with a “sauna” composition. And it’s best to make all the furniture, especially inside the steam room, from aspen. Aspen does not rot, thanks to which it lasts for decades.

What kind of stove should I put in the bathhouse?

House with sauna for sale! Wonderful estate - inexpensive!!!

— the heart of the bathhouse, its main unit! If you make the stove yourself, then its walls should be made of thick steel, and the water container should be top-mounted. To prevent the water from boiling all the time while we are steaming, and so that the air in the steam room does not become humidified so quickly, when installing the tank at the top, you can simply place an asbestos sheet under the bottom of the tank. Then the air in the steam room will be dry. And, of course, we place the stove with the firebox in the washing compartment or outside the log house. On three sides of the stove in the steam room, we lay out a half-brick wall the height of the stove, while at the same time creating an arched opening for the firebox in the washing room. It looks beautiful and is convenient to use.