Aerator for mixer: what is it and why is it needed? Faucet aerator: types, design and operation features Aerators with adjustable rotation angle

An aerator for a faucet is a small device that is attached to the “spout” of the faucet and serves to limit the flow of water without any noticeable reduction in the intensity of the stream. When using plumbing fixtures without aerators, water consumption can reach a shocking figure - 15 liters per minute. With them, you will use no more than 6-7 liters per minute. But the advantages of these “attachments” do not end there.

Design and principle of operation of the aerator

Advantages and disadvantages of such a nozzle

The main advantages of using an aerator include:

• low price. The nozzle will cost you 2-10 dollars (depending on the design features);
• reducing the noise level during operation of plumbing fixtures. The water supplied along with the air does not make noise;
• ease of maintenance. The elementary design allows even a housewife to understand the intricacies of the device and operation of the nozzle;
• performs the function of a simple .

There is only one drawback - the fragility of the device. If your house has old pipes, you will have to change the aerators on the taps every six months to a year.

The aerator screens can be cleaned with a pin or needle.

How to clean and replace the aerator?

If it is necessary to clean the aerator (and there will be such a need), work should be carried out in the following order:

1. Uninstall the aerator by rotating it with your hand, a wrench and pliers clockwise - when looking at the faucet from above. If the rubber gasket does not fall out immediately, it must be removed and the condition assessed.
2. By pressing your finger on the side where the jet exits the body, remove the cylinder with mesh.
3. Having disassembled the cylinder into “spare parts” using a stream of water and a needle (toothpick, thin awl), clean its individual elements.
4. When all parts of the aerator are cleaned, you can assemble it and install it in place. Don’t forget to put a gasket on top of the nozzle - in a word, screw it together (counterclockwise when viewed from above). You should not tighten the aerator too much - it will be quite enough if you just do it by hand. If, after opening the water, you see a leak, just take pliers and a napkin and tighten slightly.

As you can see, the process of cleaning the aerator does not contain any difficulties. The same can be said about replacing the nozzle - unscrew the old one, install the new one, and that’s the end of it.

You can clean and replace the aerator with your own hands at any time - there is no need to resort to the services of a professional and not always “cheap” plumber.

You will find more detailed instructions on replacing the aerator in our material:.

Aesthetics is found in the details

If you have children in your home or you are simply a connoisseur of pleasant little things, then you will definitely like an illuminated faucet aerator. The bodies of such nozzles are usually made of brass with a chrome plated finish.

The design of illuminated aerators assumes the presence inside the housing of a built-in microturbine with an electric generator and a temperature sensor with a diode system. The operating temperature of such a nozzle is up to 60 degrees Celsius.

Note! The original design of the jet regulators with LED backlight does not require additional power sources. Such aerators operate by rotating a turbine.

The illuminated faucet aerator attaches to the faucet spout as simply as a regular one. Screws in by hand, without using tools. When the tap is opened, the jet illumination appears automatically. Its color, as you might guess, completely depends on the current water temperature:

• at temperatures below 29 degrees – green;
• at a temperature of 30-38 – blue;
• at temperatures of 39 and above - red.

In our next article you will learn how to choose a good bathroom faucet: .

The beautiful illumination of luminous aerators will not leave either children or adults indifferent.

Just a few years ago, when purchasing a faucet for a kitchen or bathroom, you could sometimes see kits with a removable or built-in aerator on sale. Many, considering them to be an ordinary filter, independently removed this modification from the tap, citing the fact that they already had a built-in filter installed.

Today it is quite difficult to purchase any faucet without this additional element, which not only performs its direct function (filters and saturates water with oxygen), but also helps to significantly reduce water consumption.

Description and features

An aerator for a faucet is a nozzle in the form of a small mesh filter installed on the spout. This device allows you to saturate ordinary water with microparticles of air, that is, aerate it. An aerator is often called a “diffuser” because it splits one large stream of liquid down the spout into many smaller streams.

The main details of such a device are:

• housing (most often made of metal or plastic);
• filters for additional purification of water from small debris;
• water and gas mixer (air is sucked into the housing using holes around the perimeter);
• outer mesh (to divide the main stream into many small streams);
• various bushings and seals (for a tight connection).

The aerator allows you to create different types of water flow:

• aerated – volumetric soft jet without splashes;
• laminar – intense crystal clear jet;
• spray - many miniature streams.

Purpose

The main function of an aerator for tap water is to saturate it with oxygen microparticles. This not only significantly changes its taste for the better, but also contributes to faster weathering of chlorine if the water in the region is chlorinated. In addition, the stream itself falls more gently onto the bottom of the sink and onto objects placed in it, which significantly reduces splashing of liquid into the surrounding space. If a rotary aerator is installed in the kitchen, then washing large kitchen utensils is simplified several times; the water flow reduces its impact force and more gently washes away cleaning agents from the soaped surface.

Another function of the faucet aerator is water saving. Although the device itself is not very reliable and needs to be replaced often (at least once a year), it reduces water consumption by two or more times.

At the same time, the convenience of washing dishes with such savings does not become lower, but even increases due to higher efficiency of use. A wide jet washes dishes several times faster, which also saves time on housework. The second drawback, in addition to frequent replacement, is the slow speed at which water fills the container, but this drawback is so insignificant that it can be safely ignored.

What are they?

The simplest aerator is a small round sprayer with a metal mesh, screwed into the spout of the faucet. Today, such a standard device comes complete with any purchased mixer and, like the bottom valve, will reduce water consumption by at least 30 percent. It will last about six months, after which it will need to be replaced with a similar or more complex device.

Rotary aerators are also called flexible, as they can be rotated in different directions. One option for such a device is a special elongated hose tube, which is attached to the spout. This device allows you to collect liquid even in containers that do not fit into the sink bowl.

The second option is an aerator in the form of a small watering can, similar to a shower head. Adjustable in length, it can be moved around the sink area and used in “spray” and “jet” modes. By adjusting the tilt of the aerator head and water pressure, you can achieve the ideal result in each specific situation.

The liquid stream in an interesting backlit device is illuminated depending on its temperature. Cold water (up to 29 degrees) is highlighted in green, warm water (from 30 to 38 degrees) is highlighted in blue, and hot water (above 40 degrees) is highlighted in red. This is achieved through internal temperature sensors that do not require connection to the mains. The built-in turbine that powers the LED lamps rotates due to the flow of water when the tap is opened, so this method of saturating water with oxygen is also called ejector.

Illuminated devices are especially convenient for families with small children, as they will allow you to immediately determine the temperature of the liquid by the color of the flow when opening. In addition, bright colors will help attract the child's attention, and bathing will take place in a more relaxed environment. Also, an illuminated aerator is often installed on touchless touchless faucets in order to immediately see what temperature the water is pouring out of it.

A vacuum aerator is considered the most economical; it allows you to reduce the amount of water used by half. The price of such attachments is significantly higher than usual, but quickly pays for itself. The vacuum system compresses water with a special valve, after which it forms a strong jet passing through the filter cells under a stronger pressure than the pressure in the central system.

In addition to the design of the device itself, aerators may differ in the type of nozzles. Disc devices are a nozzle with a round disk in which small holes for liquid are located. With their help, the main flow is divided into thin streams and dissected by a reflector (metal mesh). The slot aerator saturates the liquid with air by breaking the water flow into individual droplets through special slits in the deflecting disk, after which the oxygen-enriched stream is cut through a metal filter mesh.

Since the design of any aerator includes various filtering and separating meshes, the difference may be due to the type of material from which they are made:

• Made of metal. The simplest and cheapest elements that have the shortest service life.

• Made from polymers. Polymer dividers can be either simple disks, similar to metal ones, or complex “tunnel” systems. The plasticity of the material allows you to create not only round aerators, but also rectangular, hexagonal and complex-shaped devices. They practically do not oxidize from contact with water and air, which significantly extends their service life, but at the same time increases their price. In addition, polymers are most often quite fragile and can break under slight pressure when washing plumbing fixtures.
• From non-ferrous metals. Brass and bronze aerators require large manufacturing costs, as a result of which they have a fairly high price. However, the service life and reliability of the design perfectly compensate for their cost.
• Nets made of plastic and extruded aluminum. Both of these options have many disadvantages: they are fragile, short-lived, aluminum is highly oxidized and tightly welded to the inner surface of the spout pipe, plastic can be deformed at high temperatures. Their only advantage is their low price, but the risks associated with choosing such low-quality products are too high.

Based on the installation method, we can distinguish between an internal aerator (screwed into the spout) and an external aerator (screwed onto the spout).

Diameter

In addition to differences in design features and materials, aerators differ in thread sizes. Since its size must correspond to the diameter of the spout pipe, it is very important to select the necessary parameters correctly (an aerator with an 18 mm thread will not fit on a faucet with a spout diameter of 22 mm and vice versa). The diameter of the aerator can range from 12 to 1200 mm. The height of the device is 14-2000 mm, and the diameter of the air channel is from 20 to 2200 mm. The thread size is indicated alphanumerically (M20, M24, M28, and so on) and is indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer.

Most often, three standard thread diameters are used: 28/26, 24/22 and 18/16 mm. From this relationship it follows that if an external thread of 28 mm is used, then the internal thread for the same tap will be 26 mm. Another important point is to purchase an aerator with external threads for a spout with external threads, respectively. The same is true for spouts with internal threads.

Review of manufacturers

The more reliable the manufacturer, the less likely it is to buy a defective or counterfeit product, so when choosing a faucet attachment, it is best to choose companies that top the ratings of the best according to customer reviews.

• Grohe. Sanitary fittings made in Germany are distinguished by high quality, wide operational modifications and original design.
• Jacob Delafon. French nozzles, predominantly made of sanitary porcelain, are considered elite equipment. The high price guarantees a long service life and excellent quality of products.

• Finnish Timo aerators created using modern technologies from various materials, including both complex polymers and bronze or brass. Products of various shapes, sizes and colors are provided with a five-year warranty card, which indicates a serious approach to the quality of products.
• Oras. Aerators produced in Poland, Finland and Norway with an innovative approach entered the domestic market not so long ago, but have already firmly taken a leading position in it. Plumbing accessories of this brand are equipped with automation and are easy to use, and the price can compete even with their Chinese counterparts.

Depending on the design of the material and the manufacturing company, the cost of aerators on the construction market ranges from 2 to 10 dollars.

How to choose?

In order to choose a suitable aerator, you need to focus primarily on the quality of the product and its price. The cheapest, but least reliable plastic and aluminum attachments will last from a couple of months to six months. More expensive metal and ceramic aerators are considered slightly more reliable. However, they are also highly susceptible to corrosion and their service life leaves much to be desired. Brass nozzles are considered the most durable and reliable.

The second thing you should pay attention to is the mounting on the faucet spout. The device can be with external or internal thread and is selected depending on the thread of the mixer itself. The last but not least important aspect is the availability of additional functions. An illuminated aerator will look good in the bathroom, and in the kitchen any housewife will be delighted with a flexible device that allows you to comfortably wash even the largest pan in the sink.

Is it possible to make it yourself?

Knowing the operating principle and design of a purchased aerator, in order to save money, you can try to make it yourself. In order to make such an attachment, you must have an empty body from any faucet attachment and a durable plastic plate. Gaskets are cut out of plastic that match the size of the inner diameter of the nozzle.

Using a hot needle or a sharp awl, many holes are made in such a gasket so that it resembles a fine mesh. The finished meshes are placed in the empty nozzle body instead of conventional filters, and the nozzle is attached to the spout. Such an aerator will perform all the functions assigned to it, but its service life is significantly lower than purchased products, especially with brass meshes.

Installation instructions

Installing an aerator is not particularly difficult even for a person who has never encountered this device. In order to install a new or replace an old aerator, you must adhere to a certain algorithm.

First, you need to remove from the mixer all the attachments that were previously installed on it. Unscrew the housing and remove the old rubber gasket placed on the spout. The joint must be thoroughly cleaned and washed, and then allowed to dry slightly.

In the package with the device, you need to find a seal in the form of a rubber gasket and put it on the faucet spout. If the kit does not include such a seal, you will have to buy it yourself. It should be of such a diameter that it fits the faucet. If the diameters of the aerator and the mixer itself are different, then you must additionally purchase a special adapter and additional gaskets. The material of the adapter must match the materials of the mixer and aerator. After the adapter, a rubber gasket is also placed on it.

The aerator is screwed to the mixer (or adapter) using a wrench or pliers. To avoid damaging the glossy chrome surface, you can place a piece of fabric, rubber, or purchase a special tool at the junction of the tool and the device body. The thread should be tightened tightly enough, but you should not use extra force to avoid tearing it off.

After installation, be sure to conduct a leak test. If water seeps through the joints, you need to either tighten the threads or adjust the gasket.

Breathing is the source of life not only for humans, but also for all animals. It is known that even plants that release oxygen through photosynthesis breathe at night, when there is no sunlight, i.e. consume oxygen. Oxygen is needed not only by those who are on the surface, but also by those who live under water. Therefore, it is important to know how to make a pond aerator with your own hands.

Water aeration

Under natural conditions, where bodies of water flow into one another, the water becomes saturated with oxygen. Continuously flowing springs replenish water bodies with microelements. But ponds may require forced aeration. The need for this is due to a number of reasons:

• Seasonal and daily temperature changes. The warmer the water, the faster the metabolism of flora and fauna occurs. This leads to greater oxygen consumption.
• Too much sludge. This sediment interferes with normal oxygen exchange.
• Excess vegetation. If you do not clean the pond in time, the algae occupy a large area and impede free gas exchange.
• Excessive number of inhabitants. The more representatives of the fauna, the more active the life activity and the more its products are released.
• Rare precipitation. Rainwater is also a source of minerals and provides an opportunity to increase oxygen levels.
• The need to mix the layers of water to prevent stagnation.
• During aeration, the temperature regime is normalized.

In order to determine whether the installation of an aerator is really necessary in your case, it is enough to observe a little what is happening in the pond:

• If there is a fish, does it constantly rise to the surface to take in air?
• Has a film appeared that indicates stagnation?
• Watch the snails. If they move freely on the rocks, then everything is fine, if they are all on the seaweed and trying to rise as high as possible, there is reason to worry.

Types of aerators

If you determine that it is urgently necessary to save the living creatures in your pond, then special devices that allow you to do this - aerators - will come to the rescue. They are divided into two large groups:

• stationary;
• mobile.

The first ones are installed and used constantly. The second option can be applied to several reservoirs. Aerators are distinguished by location methods.

Superficial. These include units that move freely on the surface of the water. Their operating principle can be fountain-like. The pump draws water into itself and releases it in the form of a geyser above the surface. Water, being in the air, is saturated with oxygen and ionized. When water flows back into the pond, it transfers air to the pond's inhabitants. In other options, the ejector method of aeration is used. The design of such a device may include a motor with blades, which, striking the surface with great force and speed, lead to the formation of air bubbles and mixing of the layers. In other cases, a pump is used that sucks in water, mixes it with air and returns it back to the reservoir.

Bottom or shore. This type is the most effective. The principle of its operation comes down to the fact that there is a compressor on the shore near the reservoir. Its purpose is to supply air through tubes to special diffusers, which are mounted in several places at the bottom of the pond. The bubbles, passing through the space, saturate the entire thickness of the water with oxygen; the layers are also mixed and the sludge rises for further filtration. In order to prevent the reverse flow of liquid and its entry into the electrical device, a valve is installed.

Combined. More often they are classified as superficial. Here, as in the previous version, there is a compressor unit, which is located on the shore; it supplies compressed air, which is dispersed into the upper layers of the water through a floating head. In another option, a pump is installed. Water is taken in through a moving module, mixed with air and supplied back from the shore in the form of a fountain or waterfall.

Wind aerators. They are a floating or supported structure. The wind sets the blades in motion, which transmit rotational torque to the underwater part, which creates a current, as a result of which air bubbles form on the surface.

It’s not always worth settling on the option that you personally like. It is necessary to take into account the characteristics and needs of the inhabitants of the pond, including plants. Some of them do not like noisy falling jets, so you will have to take care of bottom options.

With your own hands

In most cases, you can save money by not buying a ready-made device. Just take a good look around your garage and you may find that you have all or part of the necessary components for DIY assembly. First, let's assemble an ejector-type aerator. For this we need:

• drainage pump ;
• sewer pipe with a diameter of 32 mm - 2 m and a pipe of 30 - 50 cm;
• 45° angled tee;
• corner at 45°;
• double braided wire.

You don’t need to take the most expensive and powerful pump, it’s simply not necessary. The cross-section of the cable for laying the supply line is selected in such a way that the current consumed during constant operation is maintained. Assembly does not take much time.

1. The pump usually comes with an angled outlet and a hose fitting. We insert rubber seals into the sewer tee. We connect it to the fitting. To do this, simply press them tightly together. To be on the safe side, silicone sealant can be applied to the inner wall of the tee.
2. On the other side, we install a short pipe into the tee.
3. We set an angle of 45° in the upper outlet, and attach a longer pipe to it.
4. Now we connect the corner adapter from the pump and the entire assembled structure.
5. Electrical wire is supplied. To make the connection more airtight, it is advisable to cut the plug. Next, the wires are twisted together, covered with several layers of electrical tape and placed in a sealed coupling with gaskets or filled with a polymer compound. If you don’t want to cut off the plug so as not to lose the warranty, then you will need to make an extension cord and place the socket with the included plug in several layers of polyethylene, and then wrap it with electrical tape.
6. In order for the pump to be kept at a constant depth (0.7 – 1 m will be enough, but so that the intake pipe can be above the surface of the water), it is necessary to install a mast. It can be made from a metal pipe that is simply driven into the ground at the bottom. The unit is simply secured with wire.
7. It’s good if the pump is placed in a mesh container with small windows, then you can be sure that no living creatures will be harmed.
8. Next, voltage is applied.

If desired, you can make some changes that will improve the performance of the aerator. To do this, you need to replace the angular connection from the pump with a straight pipe; you can also install a check valve with a soft spring in the pipe that is located on the surface. This way reverse current will not occur.

You may be wondering why you can't use a 90° tee? In fact, everything is very simple - at an angle of 45°, air is drawn in and moves along with the flow, mixing with water. If you take a tee with an angle of 90°, there is a high probability of air flowing back.

The following possible method of making an aerator will not only be useful, but will also improve the aesthetic appearance. We will need:

• Centrifugal pump (it is better if it is self-priming) or pump.
• Reinforced hose or HDPE pipe.
• Connecting fittings.
• Cable for supplying electricity.
• Wild stone for decoration.

The number and diameter of fittings is selected depending on the specific landscape solution, as well as in accordance with the diameter of the pipes. The sequence of work is as follows:

• If a centrifugal pump has been chosen, then it can be installed directly on the shore. It is not necessary to dig a hole for it; it is enough to provide a convenient place for storing it (for example, a metal box or shed, where it will be protected from precipitation). It is advisable to place the pump in a cube made of metal mesh and lower it into water.
• The supply hose is installed and connected to the pumping device. Don’t forget to install a check valve on the fence, as well as a mesh that will prevent large particles from getting onto the impeller.
• Next, connect the hose through which the output will be carried out.
• A slide made of natural stone is built on a selected area of ​​the pond. The hose is connected to it.
• To make the flow of water more effective, you can find a vase or other beautiful vessel, make a hole in its lower part and fix a hose in it, the rest of which will be covered with stones.
• The electrical part is connected.
• To make the first start easier, it is better to fill the intake hose with water through a special hole on the pump.

You can also build a bottom aerator at home. This is easy to do if you have a car compressor with a receiver. So, we will need:

• Compressor.
• High pressure hoses.
• Tees.
• Clamps.
• Sprayers.

You can make the latter yourself. To do this, for example, you can take several 0.5 liter plastic bottles. Holes are made in them using an awl. To make the escaping bubbles even smaller, you can wrap the vessels in foam rubber.

How to make a compressor yourself using a compressor from a refrigerator, see below:

• The compressor is placed in a place convenient for you.
• A branch of the central hose is laid from it.
• Using tees and clamps, a branch is made to the required number of aerators.
• In order to secure the hoses to the bottles, you must purchase a herringbone connector with a ½" male thread. It is fixed in the neck using a two-component polymer resin or other convenient method. On the Christmas tree, the hose is clamped with a clamp.
• Aerators are fixed to the bottom. This can be done by carefully placing them under a cobblestone or attaching them to a hammered rod.

Before the first start, it is better to set the pressure to a value less than average. It can be added as needed. One of the disadvantages of such a system will be the impossibility of its continuous use, as well as noise.

If you don’t have a compressor, you can replace it with a motor from a regular vacuum cleaner. In this case, it would be better to use ordinary corrugated hoses rather than high-pressure hoses. You also need to correctly calculate their length so that the flow can easily push them through.

The next type of device will be especially relevant in winter, when engines do not perform so well. It also does not require electricity and operates completely autonomously. For production we will need:

• a metal corner or square measuring 30x30 mm (more is possible);
• round reinforcing rod without ribs with a diameter of 20 mm;
• bearings, the internal diameter of which will correspond to the external size of the reinforcement, are better to take the closed type;
• 2 metal strips with a thickness of 2 mm or more (their width should be 20 mm larger than the size of the bearing);
• plastic barrel;
• fastening material;
• Bulgarian;
• roulette;
• a propeller from a car radiator or something similar.

The build process will be like this:

1. Dimensions are selected for specific conditions and the depth to which the product needs to be lowered.
2. Using a grinder, 8 identical pieces of material are cut.
3. Two identical squares are made from them.
4. A cross member is welded into each square of metal strips. It is necessary to cut a hole in the middle along the outer diameter of the bearing and install it inside, securing it with tacks.
5. Using four jumpers, these squares are connected to each other to form a cube or parallelogram. The centers of the bearing holes must be strictly in the same plane.
6. A rod made of reinforcement is mounted in the bearings. To prevent it from slipping, it must be secured to the inner ring with tacks.
7. The barrel is cut into two parts, they will serve as blades that catch the wind and rotate the shaft.
8. They are attached to the fittings using metal hinges.
9. Next, the support legs are welded.
10. A propeller from the radiator is installed at the end of the shaft.
11. The entire structure is lowered into the water.

The wind spins the blades, and the force is transmitted through the shaft to the propeller below, which creates turbulence, saturating the water with oxygen and preventing it from freezing in winter.

The blades can be made from any sheet metal or other material. The most important thing is to position them so that they can catch the air flow. The platform itself can be made floating. For this purpose, polystyrene foam, plastic barrels, old cylinders or bottles are used. To prevent the structure from floating far, it is tied to the shore with a cable.

Based on these decisions, you can build a structure that will suit your needs. We are interested to know what happened for you personally. Share your ideas in the comments.

Video

The following video shows how to assemble an ejector aerator using available materials:

How to assemble a wind turbine for a wind aerator, see below:

First of all, you need to look around your garage and select the necessary parts:

• drainage pump (not very powerful);
• a two-meter section of sewer pipe (diameter 32 mm);
• forty-centimeter pipe (of the same diameter);
• 45 degree corner tee;
• good double braided cable.

Important! The tee must be exactly forty-five degrees. If you connect the aerator pipe at a right angle, water will constantly be thrown into the device.

It’s easy to assemble a homemade aerator:

The sewer tee is connected to the drainage pump using the included fitting. For reliability, you can use silicone sealant.

On the other hand, a shorter length pipe is inserted into the tee.

You need to insert a 45 degree angle into the upper outlet, and then attach a long pipe.

Now you need to connect the electrical cable to the aerator. The wire must be sealed, so it is wrapped in several layers of electrical tape and placed in a hermetically sealed corrugation.

The pump must always be located at a depth of 70-100 cm from the surface of the water, while the intake pipe must be located above the water level. To ensure this, it is necessary to weld a mast from a metal pipe and fix it at the bottom of the pond.

All that remains is to attach the aerator to the mast and apply voltage.

Advice! If there are fish in the pond, it is better to enclose the pump in a mesh box.

Do-it-yourself bottom aerator for a pond

Such a device will cost very little, especially if the owner has an unnecessary car compressor with a receiver. So, for a homemade bottom aerator you will need:

• compressor (from a car, vacuum cleaner or refrigerator);
• high pressure hoses;
• clamps;
• tees;
• sprayers or nozzles.

Advice! You can make nozzles from simple improvised means. For example, empty plastic bottles in which you need to make small holes are suitable. If you need to further reduce the size of the air bubbles, you can wrap the bottles with thin foam rubber.

Assembling an aerator with your own hands is not at all difficult:

The compressor unit is placed in a convenient place (this could be a barn located next to a pond).

A central hose is connected to the compressor and pulled towards the pond.

Using tees, it is necessary to make bends according to the number of nozzles. To ensure a reliable connection, it is better to use clamps.

Fix the nozzles to the tees.

Attach sprayers to the bottom of the pond. They can be pressed down with cobblestones or metal pins with a curved end driven into the bottom.

Attention! Such an aerator will not be able to work continuously, and the device will make a lot of noise. Therefore, a homemade bottom aerator is suitable for irregular saturation of ponds.

DIY wind aerator

In winter, engines and compressors do not feel very good. If you need to enrich the pond with oxygen in winter, it is better to use a wind aerator, and it can be assembled from the most ordinary parts.

To work you will need:

• metal square with sides 30x30 cm;
• a long smooth metal rod with a cross-section of about 20 mm;
• closed type bearings corresponding to the diameter of the rod;
• two metal strips 2 mm thick, the length of which is slightly longer than the dimensions of the bearings;
• plastic barrel;
• a fan from the car’s cooling system or something similar;
• fasteners and tools.

You need to assemble a wind aerator like this:

You need to cut 8 identical squares from metal, and then weld them into cubes.

A cross member should be installed inside each cube, a hole should be cut in it and a bearing should be installed inside it. The centers of the holes in both bearings must be strictly on the same line.

A metal rod is inserted into the bearings.

The plastic barrel should be cut into two equal parts - these are the windmill blades.

Using metal loops, secure the blades to the top of the rod.

The fan blades are fixed to the bottom of the metal rod - they will be located under water.

Assemble the mast for the wind aerator and install it in the pond, attach the self-assembled device with blades.

Attention! The wind aerator can be made floating. To do this, foam plastic, plastic barrels or bottles are attached to the bottom of the mast.

This aerator design is relevant for large ponds, and to prevent the device from floating too far, you can tie a rope.

Conclusion

An aerator is an indispensable device for small artificial reservoirs. It prevents stagnation of water, the appearance of bad odors, siltation of the bottom and walls, saturates the water with oxygen and creates favorable conditions for the life of plants and animals.

It is not at all necessary to spend a lot of money on purchasing an aerator; it is quite possible to make one yourself, using the simplest materials and tools. You can watch the video on how to assemble a pond aerator:

An aerator is a plumbing device that is installed on the spouts of water taps and mixers to saturate the water with small air bubbles and mechanically clean it from foreign particles.

The principle of operation of the aerator is to pass water through several meshes with different cell sizes. Thanks to this, the water is saturated with air, feels soft and splashes less when washing dishes. While maintaining cleaning efficiency aerator saves up to 70% water.

Types of mixer aerators

The range of aerator attachments for installation on faucet spouts is presented in the following types:

• simple mesh, which is usually installed by manufacturers on all spouts of faucets and mixers;
• with adjustable water jet shape;
• with a change in the angle of the water jet;
• with adjustment of the shape and angle of the water stream;
• with random LED multi-colored illumination of the water jet;
• with LED illumination of the water jet in different colors depending on its temperature.

The photo on the left shows an aerator with the ability to adjust the shape and angle of the water jet, on the right is an aerator with LED lighting, and in the center there are two simple standard aerators.

Simple mesh

A widespread type of aerator, which is usually installed on all faucet and bathtub spouts, in wash basins and in kitchen sinks.

A simple aerator consists of a housing containing a series of plastic and metal meshes. The photo shows a simple disassembled aerator.

With the ability to adjust the shape and angle of the water jet

Manufacturers, as a rule, do not install aerators with the ability to adjust the shape and angle of water flow on faucet spouts, since their efficiency is not much different from standard aerators, and they cost twice as much.

Typically, the shape of faucet spouts provides the optimal direction of the water stream, and the ability to change its angle is rarely in demand. But the ability to change the shape of the jet can be useful.

If water flows out in the form of a stream from many jets, as in the photo on the left, then the water pressure in each of the jets increases and this mode is good when washing heavily soiled dishes. In another position of the flow regulator, water flows out like from a standard aerator.

With LED illuminated water jet

More recently, thanks to the efforts of Chinese manufacturers, faucet aerators with LED lighting that illuminate the water have appeared on the market. Children really like the water illuminated in different colors and they are happy to run to wash themselves or even wash the dishes. And adults also enjoy looking at colored water.

There are two types of aerators with LED lighting:

• with random color changes;
• with backlight color changing depending on water temperature

Structurally, aerators are made the same, and the choice is determined only by personal preferences. If you like constantly changing colors, as in a strobe light, then you need to choose the first type, and if you like water simply illuminated in one color, then the second type.

An aerator with temperature-dependent water illumination illuminates the stream as follows:

• green at temperatures below 30°C;.
• blue at temperatures ranging from 30°C to 38°C;
• red at temperatures above 39°C.

Aerator device with LED lighting

Aerators with LED lighting, both with iridescent colors and those that illuminate the water with a color depending on its temperature, are designed in the same way and designed to operate at a temperature of water passing through them no more than 60°C.

The photo shows the aerator from the side where the water stream is flowing out. As you can see, instead of a mesh there is a transparent lid with holes, like in a shower head.

On the opposite side of the aerator there is a mesh filter for coarse water purification and an annular rubber gasket. The mesh filter in quality aerators is usually made of stainless steel or brass.

The mesh is simply inserted into the aerator body and can be easily removed. Behind it you can see a part in the form of a cup, on the sides of which there are three rectangular holes made at an angle, which serve to direct the flow of water onto the blades of the generator turbine.

The cup is made of plastic and is not fixed, so it can also be easily removed without the use of tools.

Water, falling under pressure on the generator turbine blades, causes them to rotate. The turbine is mounted on a shaft, and when rotating, it transmits torque through it to a generator, which generates electric current. LEDs are connected to the generator winding. Therefore, when the generator is running, they glow, illuminating the water.

As you can see there are no There are no batteries in the LED aerator. If the LEDs stop shining, it means the generator or LEDs have failed. Such an aerator cannot be repaired, unless you can clean the mesh filter and turbine from dirt.

Manufacturers call the nozzle with LED lighting, designed for installation on the faucet, an aerator, which is not true. This device does not have a system that fills water jets with air bubbles and therefore it is more correct to call it a water divider with LED backlight.

It should be noted that an aerator with LED lighting works well even with very low water pressure, but at the same time it produces a rather loud acoustic noise, which is emitted by a working electric generator. The sound emitted by the aerator is similar to the noise of a running electric motor in children's toys, complemented by flowing water from a shower head.

When purchasing an illuminated aerator, you should take into account that its length is several centimeters and after installing it on the faucet spout, the working area will decrease, which can create inconvenience for a shallow sink.

The practice of using an aerator with LED lighting has shown that its service life rarely exceeds six months.

Installing an aerator with LED lighting on a faucet

Before installing an aerator with LED lighting on the faucet spout, you must unscrew the already installed aerator from it.

The body of the aerator with LED backlight is usually made of plastic and does not have edges for tightening it with an open-end wrench. Therefore, it is simply wrapped in the tap spout by hand.

Standard sizes of water aerators for mixers

Depending on the type of thread, aerators are available with external and internal threads. In addition, the thread can have a diameter of 20 mm, 22 mm, 24 mm and 28 mm. Therefore, before choosing an aerator, it is necessary to determine the type and diameter of the thread of the mixer spout.

The photo on the left shows an aerator with external threads. These are the most widely used. And on the right is located with internal thread.

What material to choose a faucet aerator from?

Aerator housings for the mixer are made of plastic or brass. They are covered with a decorative shiny coating on top and are practically no different in appearance. Aerators with a brass body are more expensive, but they also last for many years.

The body of the aerator, made of plastic, becomes brittle over time due to changes in water temperature, and when you try to unscrew it with a key from the faucet spout for cleaning, it cracks. This fact is confirmed by personal experience. Therefore, if you plan to clean the aerator meshes with your own hands in the future, then It is better to purchase an aerator with a brass body.

The coarse water filter in the aerator (blue in the photo above), which simultaneously performs the task of cutting the water flow into many thin jets, is usually made of plastic. I have not seen metal filters. There is no choice here.

Fine meshes in the aerator, directly involved in the formation of bubbles in the water, are made of plastic, extruded aluminum, brass, plain or stainless steel. The choice should be made of meshes made of brass, or better yet, stainless steel. They will serve forever.

Thus, the best choice would be an aerator, the body of which is made of chrome-plated brass, and the fine mesh is made of stainless steel.

How to clean aerator screens from dirt and rust

Over time, due to the content of small particles of iron oxides in tap water, they are deposited on all surfaces with which the water comes into contact. The water aerator will not escape this fate either.

The coarse and fine screens become clogged, bubbles disappear from the water flowing from the tap, and it stops making the characteristic hissing sound. And all the advantages that the aerator created disappear. Of course, you can replace it with a new one. But it’s easy to clean the grids from dirt and rust with your own hands.

How to remove and disassemble the aerator

To unscrew the aerator, there are two edges on its body for gripping with a key, located diametrically opposite.

There are special plastic wrenches on sale that are designed to unscrew aerators. The design of one of these keys is shown in the photograph. But I think there is no point in purchasing a special wrench that can be replaced with a standard open-end wrench.

To unscrew the aerator with an open-end wrench, you need to grab the aerator by the edges with its jaws and rotate it clockwise (if you look at the faucet from above). To prevent scratches on the surface of the case from the impact of the key, thin leather or other material can be placed between its jaws.

View of the removed aerator assembly. The design is a collection of meshes with very small cells, folded one after the other sequentially into a cylindrical glass. The first two plastic meshes guide the stream of water and at the same time serve as a coarse filter, the rest mix water and air.

To remove the mesh from the aerator body, press with your finger on the mesh, which is located on the side where the water flows out. All meshes will be removed along with the cylinder in which they are placed.

The photo shows a coarse mesh and a cylinder with fine meshes remaining in it.

By prying the edge of the spherical mesh with the blade of a knife, you disconnect the block of coarse mesh.

The photo shows the coarse water purification mesh disassembled. All that remains is to remove the fine water purification mesh from the cylinder and you can begin cleaning the mesh from dirt and rust.

Cleaning the aerator mesh from rust

First, you need to wash each aerator mesh under running water using any detergent with a hard brush or an old toothbrush.

Mechanically, small grains of sand and dirt are easily removed from the nets. But a coating of rust, covering half or more of the mesh cells, will remain.

To remove the remaining rust deposits, you need to use a chemical cleaning method. For these purposes, any detergent for washing plumbing products that removes rust, for example Sanox, is suitable.

All parts of the aerator must be placed in a suitable container and filled with detergent. After 15-20 minutes, the rust from the surface of the part should disappear, otherwise you need to wait longer. When traces of rust disappear, the parts should be washed in running water.

As you can see in the photo, the aerator parts after treatment in the Sanox detergent began to look like new.

The aerator nets must be installed in the sequence shown in the photograph. It has been noticed in practice that in order for the aerator to operate with very low water pressure in the water supply system, the fine mesh during assembly must be oriented in such a way that the wires forming the cells of one mesh are oriented relative to the wires of the adjacent mesh at an angle of 45°.

After cleaning the mesh, assembling and installing the aerator on the mixer, a stream of water from the tap ran filled with bubbles, making a characteristic hissing sound. Thanks to cleaning the mesh with my own hands, the aerator began to work like new.

Noise control measures

Faucets with water aerators still have a drawback, which manifests itself when the faucet is installed in stainless steel sinks. Water with bubbles falling to the bottom of the sink causes its thin walls to vibrate and creates more acoustic noise than without an aerator. There is a simple way to reduce noise levels. It is enough to glue a plate of microporous rubber or other porous material to the outside of the bottom of the sink, which will dampen vibration, and with it noise.

To select the most suitable sound-absorbing material, simply open the tap and apply the material to the bottom of the sink. Then glue the most suitable one. It is quite possible that applying a thin layer of macroflex or other foam material will also be effective. But I haven't tried it myself.